I present to you “lu vi cottu"In the local dialect means Marche “mulled wine”, a dessert wine.

We are Loro Piceno, in Macerata, common to the excellence of this ancient drink of the Marche. Mario Soldati work Vino al Vino of 1971, describing the sensations experienced when tasting a must cotto aged sixty years' writing:

“I find it a dessert wine, excellent. A nice brick red color to dark gold reflections, the strange taste, smoked and rough, corrects and prevents the viscous and sometimes cloying sweetness of many raisin and marsalati. There is something fascinating, deep and rustic mountain, in vino cotto ...”

It let me know dear Emanuela Tiberi dell’The. Agricola David Tiberi of Loro Piceno (MC).

Insieme a lei, but not only, I spent a pleasant evening of food and wine circle "For All Tastes"Dedicated to the region Marche. Coordinator of this tour, Charles Vischi, the setting of the “The Cannetto“, restaurant at the Sheraton Malpensa.

During dinner with Emanuela has spoken at length about this production typically Marche ancient history. Given my interest in the traditions has seen fit to send me a publication produced by the Chamber of Commerce of Macerata, I received a few days ago, and on which I quote:

"Tradition has it that, stored in oak barrels, it constituted an act to preserve the principle medicinal luster to the skin, treat rashes of children, restore the scent of breaths and, mainly, lift the human spirit from the monotony of every day. There was no farmer or sharecropper that once he had his own barrel of wine cooked. "

The mulled wine obtained by boiling the wort from the vines of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese, resting long aging in oak barrels. In addition to being used in desserts and to flavor meat, is an excellent remedy for treating coughs and colds.

That being said I will say: “But ... the boars are escaped?” Magari you rispondo!

Unfortunately they cause serious and continuing devastation of crops. For years, entire herds damage the crops of these lands, creating serious obstacles to local agriculture. Even the hunting has been able to reduce the presence of these wild animals. An analysis of Coldiretti has estimated the damage caused by the attacks to an amount of more than four million euro.

I reproduce below the outburst that just a few days ago Emanuela made me write me an e-mail:

“Cinzia, Today I went to prune my vineyard; I found out several screws huge hole that they dug for wild boars find the roots. The risk is the consequent death of plants. A real problem is that we live for years farmers in Macerata. Who takes care of duty, but the results are still very visible.”

It seems almost impossible that we can not resolve this situation. From curious what are researching on the web, I found an article in the 2010 of the Province of Sondrio that shows the strategy adopted by local farmers “sull’uso dell’smell the bear” to ward off the wild boars. Strategy to significantly deepen…

They were events of "large numbers" that I will not be here to list, because I am certain, that the numbers ... I would end up giving them!

These were days of intense, Days of Wine and Vintners events aimed at the promotion and knowledge of the great typical Italian that make us famous in the world. Storefronts that have to be seen to "correct doses" to savor all aspects and wealth.

But now I ask you: “Enterprise will never be possible in these contexts?"What I know for sure is that, after having spent two days up and down talking on patrol, looking, but especially walking (ouch my feet ...) I am ready to draw up a "bugiardino, ma… diVino!”

Advice, dosage, modalità d’uso e… effetti indesiderati delle Fiere di Vino 😉

I state that I have not mentioned “VinNatur” not only because this year I managed to go.  One thing I just do not understand, since we are talking about natural wines, is the reason why these wonderful initiatives with a common denominator are not organized in a single context. This would prevent visitors to fans like me, to do a tour in stages exhausting to say the least! Ehhh… sighs that I do!

That said, back to my leaflet Fairs Wine:

• Advice: Friends, my advice is to have a clear idea on the stands on which to linger after reading the program; in otherwise, saw the numbers of admissions, you are likely to get lost in virtually!
• Dosage: The doses administered fairs…? Basically after a day of "administration" my ears were destroyed. 🙁 I miei amici produttori, felt their return, have planned a relaxing weekend in a cabin in the mountains without telephone connections… 😉
• How to use: Ridiculed as usual, but also in exhibitions both in the confusion while there are always some interesting, always grasp them know pausing to talk with "proven producers".
• Side effects: Daze, sore feet, but always with a smile ..., because every time you are going home richer in knowledge and ideas to think about ...

That said, pronti your!

1′ Stage:   "ViniVeri 2013" – Tenth edition of the historical review of the natural producers in Ceredigion (VR)

I often say that I feel “Peasant” for the love and peace that gives me the earth ...

“As farmers we must never tire of being custodians of Environment and everything that composes, because it is always dominated by the desire for possession, is a place of conquest, occasion of exploitation ... We Peasants Veri competes the duty not to forget that biodiversity, any living form needs, if it belongs to the world animal and vegetable, it is itself the source of life. Giampiero Bea, President Consortium ViniVeri”

This is the thinking of the participants present, wine producers but not only ... Friends I happily revised and re-embraced.

2'Stage: "Vinitaly 2013" – International Wine and Spirits Exhibition in Verona

Vinitaly they say of each, those who love and those who hate him. Personally I had never been, a little 'out of fear of the confusion that I do not love, and a little 'because as I often say, I love to live productive realities directly "field"Together with the producers. Ciò non toglie il massimo rispetto per questa manifestazione regina incontrastata del panorama enologico internazionale. Sollecitata dalla presenza di molti vignaioli che negli ultimi tempi ho avuto il piacere di conoscere, I decided only at the last minute to participate.

My impressions? I'll reply with adjectives: majestic, imposing, immense, chaotic ... whatever, important hub of trade and a starting point for socket contacts. I have not changed my way of seeing things, but I admit that I liked the size of the event.

At the conclusion of these beautiful, albeit intense and tiring days around fairs, with my reckless driver, a winemaker outstanding Terra di Franciacorta, Monzio Compagnoni, we have “vinosamente” celebrated in a nice restaurant!

Raise your glasses and ... Health drinkers of passion! 🙂

Azienda Agricola Villa Job – Pozzuolo del Friuli (Udine)

“My name is Alessandro Job, I 30 years and I love to dream and tell the life and my emotions through wine. This is who I am, in its pure essence and no frills. Why wine? Because some things are hard to explain only with words ...”

I met Alessandro initially on the web, then the person in Milan Food & Wine Festival 2012,  and then, I like it, on the field", when I and Michelangelo Sharp friend I went to see on the farm, or better in villa, Villa Job.

His farm is located in a historic house built in 1637 and purchased by Gregory Job in 1910. passionate by the history which I enjoyed the nicely decorated ceilings, the eighteenth-century statues placed in the garden, but above the wine cellar with a barrel vault with “signs” that the eye is able to see.

Drinking wine in the historic environment is very impressive, especially for a person like me that in these atmospheres travels with the mind.

Sei ettari di vigneto in cui ho passeggiato insieme ad Alessandro mentre lo ascoltavo raccontare le sue scelte di vita. Un percorso che ha iniziato giovanissimo nel 1985, and that has inextricably tied to the land and natural farming.

At dusk we moved inside dedicating ourselves to the tasting of its wines. I write often, and here I repeat myself, I am "woman red texture and character," and I hardly deny. Of course with all due respect for the whites; a good example is his Risic biological Blanc 2010 IGT which in Friulian means white grape, un blend di Chardonnay e Sauvignon.

During the tasting, my attention is directed in particular towards Serious, an organic red wine without sulfites born from the desire of Alexander to produce a natural wine earthbound, a simple but wine…  Serious.

This to me is the wine that grape,  a wine that brings me back to earth, a peasant wine ...

Vineyards Vallorani – Colli del Tronto (AP)

It was the 2 October 2012 when I received an e-mail ...

Gentile Cinzia,,it,I really like the way you tell things,,it,analysis,,it,or rather a story,,it,that goes beyond the descriptive card going further,,it,to look for the story behind each product,,it,E 'for this reason that I decided to write,,it,I studied oenology in Perugia before,,it,and then in Turin,,it,Meanwhile I have been for several years traveling around Italy and beyond,,it,NZ,,en,working as a winemaker and / or assistant winemaker,,it,trying to increase my knowledge and skills,,it,learning a little 'to all the wonderful people I met in my professional path,,it,I came home and with my brother I renovated the wine cellar that belonged to my grandfather and then my father,,it,Together we put back there to produce wine giving life to,,it, My name is Rocco Vallorani. I started following you on the web because I was impressed by the attention that in all your posts to “what lies behind a bottle”. 

Mi piace molto il tuo modo di raccontare le cose, un’analisi, o meglio un racconto, che va oltre la scheda descrittiva spingendosi più in là, fino cercare la storia che c’è dietro ad ogni prodotto. E’ per questo motivo che ho deciso di scriverti…

Ho studiato enologia a Perugia prima, e a Torino poi. Nel frattempo sono stato per diversi anni in giro per l’Italia e non solo (NZ, USA, France ) lavorando come cantiniere e/o assistente enologo, cercando di aumentare le mie conoscenze e competenze, imparando un po’ da tutte le splendide persone che ho incrociato nel mio cammino professionale. In 2010 sono tornato a casa e insieme a mio fratello ho ristrutturato la cantina che fu di mio nonno e poi di mio padre. Insieme ci siamo rimessi a produrre vino dando vita ai “Vineyards Vallorani”.

We sell almost all the bottles directly,,it,reducing to the minimum necessary representatives,,it,We would like to do it in person,,it,When possible,,it,to make customers visit the company,,it,because we do not just sell a bottle,,it,placed on a shelf will be just one of many,,it,through our wines,,it,We try to convey our ideas,,it,our values,,it,and our land,,it,Thank you for the piece you wrote,,it,restore the identity of the farmers,,it,I hope I can get in the eyes of those who decide our fate but,,it,I doubt it,,it,excuse pessimism,,it,I saw that you're often on the road,,it,you're planning a visit in Piceno,,it,It would be a pleasure to meet someone so attentive in listening to those who have something to tell ... Rocco's voice,,it, riducendo al minimo indispensabile i rappresentanti. Ci teniamo a farlo in prima persona, and, quando possibile, a far visitare l’azienda ai clienti, perché non vogliamo solo vendere una bottiglia che, piazzata su uno scaffale sarà solo una delle tante, but, attraverso i nostri vini, cerchiamo di trasmettere le nostre idee, i nostri valori, ed il nostro territorio.

Ti ringrazio per il pezzo che hai scritto, “ridare l’identità ai contadini“, spero possa arrivare agli occhi di chi decide delle nostre sorti ma, sinceramente, ne dubito, scusa il pessimismo. Ho visto che sei spesso in viaggio, hai in programma una visita nel Piceno? Sarebbe un piacere incontrare una persona così attenta nell’ascoltare la voce di chi ha qualcosa da raccontare… Rocco

I remember that initially wrote me asking a judgment about the wines that it intended to send me,,it,I stopped him right away either while thanking him for the confidence,,it,I made him understand that I would not be able to write anything so,,it,The knowledge of people is fundamental for me experience to understand their products,,it,The technical judgment I leave them to the experts,,it,I'll drink the wine and making me alive to tell from those who produce,,it,He is a young winemaker who has understood me and did not give up,,it,I found it so determined that it can not accept the invitation to meet him and know him in Bologna on the occasion of "Gusto Nudo,,it,Fair winemakers Heretics,,it,we talked to them and told me,,it,Rocco Vallorani grew up in the family business,,it. Lo fermai subito sia pur ringraziandolo per la fiducia. Gli feci capire che non sarei stata in grado di scrivere nulla così. La conoscenza delle persone per me è fondamentale esperienza per capire i loro prodotti. I giudizi tecnici li lascio agli esperti, io il vino lo bevo e lo vivo facendomelo raccontare da chi lo produce.

Lui è un giovane enologo che mi ha capito e non si è arreso. L’ho trovato così determinato da non poter non accettare l’invito per incontrarlo e conoscerlo a Bologna in occasione di “Gusto Nudo”, la Fiera dei vignaioli Eretici.

Li abbiamo parlato e mi ha raccontato…

Rocco Vallorani è cresciuto nell’azienda di famiglia. At that time, the wine was intended for the local market and sold mainly in bulk,,it,After attending agricultural college joined Perugia in the degree course in viticulture and oenology,,it,While studying he got to do the internship in Montalcino in the Company Siro Pacenti,,it,Rocco,,en,Alongside the holder,,it,Giancarlo Pacenti,,en,real person and a perfectionist to capacity,,it,I literally fell in love with sangiovese and its elegance,,it,Feeling the need to see new things and expand his knowledge on wine,,it,He decided to start looking for a job in New Zealand,,it,land of fantastic and unspoiled landscapes that has enchanted him since the early days,,it,People always with a smile,,it,respectful of common goods,,it. Dopo aver frequentato l’istituto agrario si è iscritto a Perugia al corso di laurea in viticoltura ed enologia. Mentre studiava ha avuto modo di fare il tirocinio a Montalcino nell’Azienda Siro Pacenti.

Rocco: “A fianco al titolare, Giancarlo Pacenti, persona vera e perfezionista all’inverosimile, mi sono letteralmente innamorato del sangiovese e della sua eleganza.”

Sentendo la necessità di vedere cose nuove e di ampliare le sue conoscenze sul vino, decise di partire cercando lavoro in Nuova Zelanda, terra dai paesaggi fantastici e incontaminati che lo ha fatto innamorare già dai primi giorni.

Rocco: “Gente sempre con il sorriso sulle labbra, rispettosa dei beni comuni. No one allows them to throw a cigarette butt on the ground or leave litter in a park,,it,I tried a lot of envy from Italian,,it,Once back he accepted a position as assistant winemaker in a wine cellar in France Limoux,,it,in Languedoc,,it,It was at this time that he realized that he had fulfilled all of his desire to know,,it,He decided to enroll in the degree course in viticulture and oenology science at the Universities of Turin and Milan held at Asti,,it,During these experiences,,it,fundamental for its personal and professional growth,,it,he got to know lovely people from all corners of the world,,it,all linked by the same passion for wine,,it (da Italiano ho provato molta invidia).“

Una volta tornato accettò l’incarico di assistente enologo in una cantina di Limoux in Francia, nella Linguadoca. Fu in quel periodo che si rese conto di non aver appagato del tutto la sua voglia di sapere. He therefore decided to enroll in the specialist degree course in viticultural and oenological sciences at the universities of Turin and Milan which is held in Asti. During these experiences, fondamentali per la sua crescita personale e professionale, ha avuto modo di conoscere persone squisite provenienti da ogni angolo del mondo, tutte legate dalla stessa passione per il vino. Italy in its favor, however, has an infinite potential varietal that no state,,it,nor France,,it,can boast,,it,vine varieties capable of producing unique wines in their genre with a strong link with the territory,,it,which makes our little variety adaptable to other environments,,it,"I tried the Sangiovese produced in the States or in Australia,,it,New Zealanders Montepulciani,,it,Arneis and Nebbiolo produced in the US,,it,While acknowledging the high average quality of new world wines,,it,the Italic varieties there is no comparison,,it,Unlike our native varieties,,it,French ones were exported with great results across the world,,it,Just think of the delicious Sauvignon New Zealanders,,it,the excellent Cabernet and Merlot US,,it, tantomeno la Francia, può vantare. Più di 600 varietà di vite capaci di produrre vini unici nel loro genere con un forte legame con il territorio, che rende le nostre varietà poco adattabili ad altri ambienti.

Rocco: “Ho provato dei Sangiovese prodotti negli States o in Australia, dei Montepulciani neozelandesi, Arneis e Nebbioli prodotti negli Stati Uniti. Pur riconoscendo l’elevata qualità media dei vini del nuovo mondo, sulle varietà Italiche non c’è confronto. A differenza delle nostre varietà autoctone, quelle francesi sono state esportate con ottimi risultati in tutto il mondo. Basti pensare ai buonissimi Sauvignon Neozelandesi, agli ottimi Cabernet e Merlot degli Stati Uniti, the interesting Chardonnnay the Chilean or Australian Shiraz,,it,I am convinced that the development of our varieties can be our secret weapon in the now globalized wine market. ",,it,During the placement abroad Rocco told me how much he appreciated the climate of sincere cooperation between all producers,,it,aware that,,it,moving in the same direction is the entire area to acquire value,,it,If I think of how many times I insist in my writing and orally during my visits on this concept,,it,they say that whoever takes the win,,it,I say only that I insist,,it,I want to tell you a particular,,it,provided that the tastings in the new world companies are paid,,it,dollars per person,,it. Sono convinto che la valorizzazione delle nostre varietà possa essere la nostra arma in più nell’ormai globalizzato mercato del vino.”

Durante l’esperienza all’estero Rocco mi ha raccontato quanto ha apprezzato il clima di sincera collaborazione tra tutti i produttori, consapevoli del fatto che, muovendosi nella stessa direzione è l’intera area ad acquisire valore. Se penso a quante volte insisto nei miei scritti e a voce durante le mie visite su questo concetto… mah, dicono che chi la dura la vince, io dico solo che insisto!

Rocco: "Cynthia, ci tengo a raccontarti un particolare; premesso che le degustazioni nelle aziende del nuovo mondo si pagano 5-10 dollari a persona, in all states it is expected to free tasting for workers in the sector,,it,That is a normal consumer who goes to do a tasting bears the cost of the same,,it,while an employee of another cellar there is no fee,,it,Also in each wine-growing area they were organized party pre and post harvest only for people in the industry,,it,each carried a bottle of wine for which he worked and all together there was to taste all the wines of territory, exchanging knowledge and opinions. ",,it,Another issue we faced together was on the figure and duties of the winemaker on which I have previously focused,,it. Cioè un consumatore normale che va a fare una degustazione sostiene il costo della stessa, mentre per un dipendente di un’altra cantina non ci sono costi. Inoltre in ogni zona viticola venivano organizzati party pre e post vendemmia solo per le persone del settore, ognuno portava una bottiglia della cantina per la quale lavorava e tutti insieme ci si trovava a degustare tutti i vini del territorio scambiandosi conoscenze e pareri.”

Altro argomento che abbiamo affrontato insieme è stato quello relativo alla figura e alle mansioni del winemaker su cui mi sono già precedentemente soffermata. Rocco told me that as a producer and winemaker was impressed by the fact that all the wineries have a,,it,winemaker,,en,internal,,it,very often young,,it,on,,it,with a degree in Enology and different experiences behind,,it,A competent person who joins the winemaker,,it,experiencing the vineyard and the cellar all year,,it,Following the screws from the spring awakening until harvest,,it,then the wine to the bottle,,it,Winemakers I had the good fortune of meeting have told me that their goal is to produce wines that express the ideas of the owner,,it,Among the fans of the wines produced using natural techniques,,it,winemakers are often seen as chemical industry,,it,ready with potions and ointments to make,,it,unnatural,,it,the wines,,it “winemaker” interno, molto spesso giovane, sui 30-35 age, con laurea in Enologia e diverse esperienze alle spalle. Una persona competente che si affianca al vignaiolo, vivendo il vigneto e la cantina tutti i giorni dell’anno, seguendo le viti dal risveglio primaverile fino alla vendemmia, poi i vini fino alla bottiglia.

Rocco: “Gli enologi che ho avuto la fortuna di incontrare mi hanno raccontato che il loro obbiettivo è quello di ottenere vini che esprimessero le idee del proprietario. Tra gli appassionati dei vini prodotti utilizzando le tecniche naturali, gli enologi sono spesso visti come chimici del settore, pronti con pozioni o unguenti a rendere “innaturali” i vini. In my opinion a good winemaker is the one who follows the vineyards,,it,from these vinificare he decides when and how and what techniques used to obtain a wine that is the best expression of the union between vine,,it,land and the people who work,,it,Today, unfortunately, many companies rely on so-called,,it,superconsulenti,,en,oenologists certainly very prepared and brightest,,it,But who are to follow dozens of wineries scattered throughout the territory,,it,and to manage all types of grapes produced in totally different conditions,,it,Considering also the costs of these consultants,,it,would it not be more correct to rely on a winemaker,,it,maybe young,,it,that can really devote daily to the birth of a specific wine,,it,transmitting through this even your own personality and that of the winemaker,,it, da questi decide quando e come vinificare e quali tecniche utilizzare per ottenere un vino che sia la migliore espressione del connubio tra vitigno, territorio e persone che lo lavorano. Oggi purtroppo molte aziende si affidano ai cosiddetti “superconsulenti”, enologi sicuramente molto preparati e brillanti, che si trovano però a seguire decine di cantine sparse su tutto il territorio, e a gestire uve di ogni tipologia prodotte in condizioni totalmente diverse. Considerando anche i costi di queste consulenze, non sarebbe forse più giusto affidarsi a un enologo, magari giovane, che possa davvero dedicarsi quotidianamente alla nascita di un determinato vino, trasmettendo tramite questo anche la personalità propria e quella del vignaiolo? And the wineries would be better to have a person with the expertise that supports them in their daily work,,it,Rocco and his brother Stefano decided in,,it,to devote himself to the family business by closing the first winery to start the renovation work completed in,,it,A run organic reality in the Marches vigorously powered by a photovoltaic system that allows him to have,,it,the year,,it,a positive energy balance,,it,An area of ​​eight hectares of which seven vineyards and one olive grove,,it,The cultivated varieties are Pecorino,,it,Passerina,,en,Sangiovese and Montepulciano,,it,All our products are aged sur lies,,it,an ancient technique born in Burgundy in the production of Chablis,,it?”

Rocco con il fratello Stefano ha deciso nel 2005 di dedicarsi all’azienda di famiglia chiudendo inizialmente la cantina per avviare i lavori di ristrutturazione terminati nel 2010. Una realtà a conduzione biologica in terra marchigiana alimentata energicamente da un impianto fotovoltaico che gli permette di avere, nell’arco dell’anno, un bilancio energetico positivo. Una superfice di otto ettari di cui sette a vigneto e uno a oliveto. Le varietà allevate sono Pecorino, Passerina, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Sangiovese e Montepulciano.

Rocco: “Tutti i nostri prodotti fanno affinamento sur lies, una tecnica antica nata in Borgogna per la produzione di Chablis, which allowed to obtain more complex wines from aromatic and taste point of view favoring also the tartaric and protein stability of wines,,it,The only drawback to this technique is the time,,it,to take place at best requires at least,,it,but often even a year,,it,with the industrialization of wine production techniques requiring time they have been set aside to make way for new natural products and / or summary,,it,and advanced equipment can accelerate any type of process,,it,Today, fortunately, we are looking in the past trying to learn the best things,,it,wrongly,,it,we had left behind,,it,I'd be a hypocrite if I said that the technology does not facilitate the work,,it,But I think it must be used in the right way,,it. L’unico neo di questa tecnica è il tempo; per avvenire al meglio richiede almeno 6-8 mesi, ma spesso anche un anno. Unfortunately,, con l’industrializzazione della produzione di vino le tecniche che richiedevano tempo sono state accantonate per far posto a nuovi prodotti naturali e/o di sintesi, ed attrezzature all’avanguardia in grado di accelerare ogni tipo di processo. Oggi per fortuna si sta guardando al passato cercando di apprendere le cose migliori che, erroneamente, ci eravamo lasciati alle spalle. Sarei un ipocrita se dicessi che la tecnologia non faciliti il lavoro, però credo che debba essere utilizzata nella maniera giusta, unstrained,,it,We strongly believe in the potential of the Piceno and our wines we tried the names that were linked to our tradition.,,it,Avora,,it,un Falerio DOC,,en,one of the oldest names in Piceno is produced by assembling the white grape varieties grown in this area,,it,The name comes from a dialect word used to indicate the lands subject to Bora,,it,Bora becomes Vora in Marche dialect,,it,then those exposed to East-North / East,,it,such as land with which produce this wine,,it,Polisia,,eo,It is a Rosso Piceno DOC,,it,other local historical doc,,it,product with an assembly of Montepulciano and Sangiovese,,it,The name comes from the legend of Polisia,,it,daughter of a Roman prefect who ruled at Ascoli that,,it,against the wishes of his father,,it. Crediamo molto nelle potenzialità del piceno e per i nostri vini abbiamo cercato dei nomi che fossero legati alla nostra tradizione.”

• Avora è un Falerio DOC, una delle denominazioni più antiche del Piceno che si produce assemblando le varietà a bacca bianca allevate in quest’area. Il nome deriva da un termine dialettale utilizzato per indicare i terreni soggetti alla Bora (Bora diventa Vora in dialetto marchigiano) quindi quelli esposti a Est-Nord/Est, come i terreni con i quali produciamo questo vino.
  

• Polisia è un Rosso Piceno DOC, altra doc storica locale, prodotto con un assemblaggio di Montepulciano e Sangiovese. Il nome deriva dalla legenda di Polisia, figlia di un prefetto romano che governava ad Ascoli che, contro la volontà del padre, He was baptized by the bishop of Ascoli then retreat on Mount Ascent from where it protects the inhabitants of the Piceno,,it,Kone,,it,Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC is produced from Sangiovese and Montepulciano but aged in French oak barrels for at least,,it,The name comes from a dialect word of Greek origin but Ascoli,,it,which indicates something valuable,,it,By now disused in everyday language,,it,This term was often used by grandparents to call amiably grandchildren,,it,In years that allow it,,it,in addition to our line,,it,We produce two reserves,,it,a Montepulciano and a Sangiovese aged in barrels for,,it,These wines have been devoted by us to our grandparents,,it.

• The Konè è un Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC prodotto dalle varietà Sangiovese e Montepulciano ma affinato in barriques di rovere francese per almeno 14 mesi. Il nome deriva da un termine dialettale ascolano ma di origine greca, Konè, che sta ad indicare qualcosa di prezioso. Oramai in disuso nel linguaggio quotidiano, questo termine veniva spesso utilizzato dai nonni per chiamare amabilmente i nipoti.

Nelle annate che lo permettono, oltre alla nostra linea, produciamo due riserve, un Montepulciano ed un Sangiovese in purezza affinati in barrique per 24 mesi. Questi vini sono stati dedicati da noi ai nostri nonni, because it is thanks to them that today we have the opportunity to highlight the heritage they have left us,,it,The Sangiovese,,it,elegant and refined as our grandfather Livio,,it,It is called just,,it,Sorlivio,,it,while Montepulciano,,it,It characterized by a stronger character as was our grandmother Filomena,,it,Where to,,xh,Greek etymology which means friend of force,,it,In a few months I in anticipation of a stage in the Marche,,it,Rocco I will certainly visit you regularly as I do and I like it,,it,in the field ... or better,,it,in vigna,,en,Falerio Doc,,en,Pecorino,,en,Rosso Piceno DOC,,it,Solivio,,hr. Il Sangiovese, elegante e raffinato come nostro nonno Livio, si chiama appunto Sorlivio, mentre il Montepulciano, caratterizzato da un carattere più deciso come era nostra nonna Filomena, is called Philumene, che nell’etimologia greca significa amico della forza.

Fra qualche mese ho in previsione una tappa nelle Marche. Rocco non mancherò di venirti a trovare come abitualmente faccio e come piace a me, direttamente sul campo… o meglio, in vigna!

Bruno Dotti, owner of the farm at St. Christopher Erbusco, the heart of Franciacorta.

"But above all, I have faith in the good wine, and I think it except those who believe ... " Luigi Pulci (1432 – 1484)

Luigi Pulci, Italian poet of the 1400 expresses his verses my thoughts: "I have faith in the good wine." But qow many believe with passion in wine? Far be it from me to debate, but as I often say, I have to believe in what I do and what I write, exactly as a winemaker has to believe in wine. The passion can not be expressed in another way ...

But by now about to make you understand why this is my premise.

I recently visited the Azienda Agricola San Cristoforo following the good advice of Mattia Vezzola, that, at my request I suggested their, and other realities to visit in the land of Franciacorta.

Bruno Dotti, owner of the family in which it collaborates with his wife Claudia, not born winemaker, anything but ... Years ago, following his father's passion has purchased a small viniculture as learning the art of making wine. From the two-hectare vineyard today its initial it covers twelve distributed in various plots all in the municipality of Erbusco.

During my visit Bruno told me about his happy life choice, choice slightly tarnished by the problems, classic by now that I'm used to listen to, related to the "strangling bureaucracy”.

After the visit to the vineyard and the winery we moved into the tasting room, just because, with my chat, some desire to be always satisfied. And here comes the fun, email me spiego ...

As usual, between photos instantly that I put in the network and camera in hand to stop the memories, I started my exploration. Drawn to some beautiful painted bottles on display here and the, I noted with great pleasure that they were productions of local realities and not.

What has impressed me so much that I could not fail to compliment the choice dictated by a genuine love for this industry, in this way, finds its proper expression in the "system".

At the conclusion of our meeting we toasted to those who believe in "true passion” in wine, drinking a cup of his Franciacorta DOCG Brut, Chardonnay grapes 100%.

Health drinkers passion!

Dear Walter ... and mind you, Gualtiero not known to most.

Below the story of a man of ninety-one thousand years by the passions ... a man of good times that were, a man who one evening in Treviso has upset emotions I.

Gualtiero Basso father of dear friend Alessandra, He was born in Treviso on 2 July 1921. The son of a dental technician has continued his father's business, but not only…

During World War II who served in G.a.F., the Border Guard, He has served as a telegraphist in Belluno and later bacteriologist in the military hospital of Padua and Milan.  indelible memories of war that have hardened the soul. About how he lived them, never will forget them ...

I met a meticulous man, almost maniacal when writing down every vicissitude of his life. A life dominated by passion and desire to do. A collector stamps, of pocket watches, of wine, a movie buff enough to shoot himself in the '60s, when the time was director of the Cine Club of Treviso, short films.  

After, Giancarlo accompany his son to the practice of Judo, She led him to become the President that has allowed a small sports reality non-military, to win the 2′ place in the "Grand Prix Society" in 1972. I quote his own words: “An incredible achievement wanted and won against all. There were also sad moments like the death of some young athletes, or the moment when I decided to leave to others the guidance, because the years increased…”                        

During the afternoon when I met him I followed carefully listening to the stories of his life. He led proudly showing me his many collections. La più sbalorditiva è stata quella del modellismo ferroviario, non potete immaginare! Sono rimasta senza parole… e questo già la dice lunga! 😉 Trenini e vagoni di tutti i modelli e di tutte le epoche, riprodotti minuziosamente! Un’intera stanza dedicata con plastico annesso, e una rete ferroviaria in scala nel giardino. Fantastico!

Gualtiero Basso

But it does not end here, perché una volta a tavola i discorsi si sono spostati sui piaceri legati al gusto, fino a far saltar fuori un fungo, o meglio… tre porcini! La passione di Gualtiero per i funghi è nata negli anni ’70 dopo aver conosciuto lo scrittore e micologo Fernado Raris.

Gualtiero mi ha spiegato che il termine porcino si riferisce a più specie e più precisamente al boletus edulis, al boletus aereus, al boletus reticulatus e al boletus pinicola. His favorite varieties for quality and taste, that they are dell'aereus and pinicola. That said, ready way with its porcini soup!

The soup Porcini Gualtiero

For 4 people

• 300 Article. of stuffing varieties boletus aereus or pinicola
• ½ onion
• 1 tablespoon of flour
• 80 Article. of butter
• parsley, Salt and Pepper To Taste.

Cut the mushrooms into thin slices 2/3 mm. Then place them in a pan in which it is made fry the onion in melted butter.

Cook slowly for half an hour mushrooms combining to need good stock.

In the meantime, go to the slices of bread baked on which, once golden, Spread a thin layer of butter.

Place them in so deep plates, and sprinkle with the mushrooms.

At the end of the evening Gualtiero wanted me to give her a short film shot in 1960. I am also passionate about cinema. When I told him that the film that I love the most is “Cinema Paradiso”, he promptly replied: “Mine is Dances with Wolves!”

"Everything stems from man, everything returns to man…  from the movie Dances with Wolves "

Come scrive Wikipedia:  "The tam-tam is a type of drum used by some African peoples as a means of distance communication to spread a message from village to village. Metaphorically, the spread of information through word of mouth. "

Good, is a few days that my way, to create synergies, I launched a hashtag su twitter, for the more a slogan to unite and make known manufacturers; Italian producers who meet and I will meet in my wanderings on social media and especially ... in person floor plan. It's time to say ENOUGH to selfishness, and forward to shake hands! States can still! Scatter benefits no one. It must start mainly from “People”, then with good projects, you can go far…

The script that I set out below is the outburst of a friend, a producer of olive oil in the region of Calabria. Italy EMPTY of which he speaks are convinced that we can still fill ... I meet so many people, people especially need back to believe in someone who unite them, and in which they can have confidence! Italian Force! I want a #TamTamxla Terra!

 "Those who kill by the exploitation, the hypocrisy or the indifference of the rural world is erasing the future ".

Alessandra Paolini

Do not ask yourself what you are doing…

Do not ask yourself who is cultivating the corn on which you will furbish dissertations gastronomic, who prunes the oranges that spremerete for the most innovative cocktails, who is bent to tie the top of the peaches, who cutter, who fertilizes, send chi…

This world does not belong to you is in the margin where your greed has secluded, you turn around like hyenas never satisfied until you'll have to turn around in search of other carcasses, your! For whoever kills with exploitation, with hypocrisy or indifference with the rural world is erasing the future. Do not ask yourself what you are doing…

And now here is my little provocation, the pebble that launch, concrete S.O.S. a nave amica:

We denounce!

But we denounce zeroing in on these disgusting swamps in which the peasant culture or say the agro-business is sinking!

Raccontiamola the story of a prototype of FIGURE (Use the male because the term is such, but I have just bumped into a figure) who believes that feeds the chickens-can crush them as you think; a powder’ maybe not to those of the category that squeeze grapes, It is seen that the above is proud to be the holder of a wine, but a wretched old wine shop for drunkards would not be worthy to take the reins!

And raccontiamolo of these fringes or perhaps they are something far more substantial? They want quality at price zero to twelve months cashable, as the offering you give to spurgarti from sins! Italy is in crisis? NO! Italy will seek the crisis that has not yet fully reached, the proof is the existence and the economic livelihood of Italians who can not do their job, but, unfortunately, still continue to work to the detriment and expense of those who work well with such difficulty, and also to improve test!

As long as there is the GDO (large-scale distribution) who does not understand a heck of what sells and the idiot who spends 300 Euros for dinner but then pidocchia the pound of citrus, until there is the lady in mink asking why a kilo of peaches costs so much, until there is a restaurateur whose employees are paid to tip more than it costs them a bottle of oil, but the latter you only pay if you damage to remind him that the bill gave the previous year, until all that exists and proliferates, Italy will remain the landfill that has become, because men who live like those who govern do not want to understand anything and invest on the symbols and the waving of flags (green as the money) even if they do not really know whether they are profitable.

But Italy is not in crisis, Italy is EMPTY, il ché è ben diverso, la crisi, anche quella economica, presuppone dal mio canto una capacità introspettiva per cogliere ed elaborare al meglio la presenza di uno stato di crisi, di contro, the vacuum can try and test a fridge Class E, just like we Italians, cold, empty and foolish and greedy consumers!

“Stiamo vivendo in un’epoca in cui tutti hanno diritti, ma nessuno parla di doveri. Giorgio Grai”

I met Giorgio Grai following the advice of John Cogo, the engineer who brianzolo “arma le terre” Bonassola and about which I wrote recently. I had arranged a tour of wines, but most of all tenants between the Veneto and Friuli. In particular, I felt compelled to keep his promise to his friend Michelangelo Cutting time back in the lead in the first visit to Oslavia Josko Gravner.

After sending an e-mail to arrange a meeting, answering the phone one morning I heard a voice say: “Buongiorno Cinzia, Giorgio Grai have. "I was the base of friends in the center of Treviso. Game early Michelangelo reached at Concordia Saggitaria; a hug and off for the first leg of our tour, Butterwick direction of Friuli.

I was not informed about the history of George. As usual, I prefer to know the people directly, to do with an idea is not tainted by what they read or hear; sometimes I realize that is a bit 'risky, but I like it, because the one that I live in this way is much more exciting.

Michelangelo was a witness to what I write; only after, on the way back, revealed to me that he feared a little bit of listening to our conversation to the crease who initially took. Giorgio Grai not understanding exactly what I tried with my questions suddenly asked me decided: “I would like to understand how I can be helpful for you?"I could not answer him that I did not know. I was there because I was advised to know. I told him simply that I would have understood only through his knowledge.

A man is not easy… but they are not either. There was a time when, having regard to its concerns, I could not help but ask: “Courage, Tell what you think!"His response was: “Lady, if there is a person who says what he thinks I am!"In this statement I found myself. During my life I have paid many times for my choices, order not to be compromised.

My path is now a, although I have not yet entirely clear destination. Maybe that's why I do drive; I just know that every person I meet I try to learn a lesson which I love to write in a simple way, che custodisco, and I agree.

Giorgio Grai was born in Bolzano to Trieste father and mother Rovereto. The son of a family of hoteliers grew up in a time when, quote his own words "the right to be able to study it meant to have the right to be promoted”. After his agricultural studies and specialization in viticulture and enology, the experiences abroad have brought to 'use of touch, of taste and smell. The passion for engines that well understand and agree that, led him then to be for ten years a rally driver.

I will not dwell too much on the story of his life in many well-known from the information on the web; I preferred "living man" while, wine tasting in the light of the sun, I reflected on his words: “The recovery of a sense of duty than that of the right”. On my return to the house of things about him I've read and I've heard many… I only know for sure, I will remember to have known him in one morning in March while he savored her pie poppy, typical of South Tyrol, and then, we walked together in the cellar of the farm behavior with Marina Danieli.

And now I ask you: “Have you ever had to taste wine goblets resting on the hood of a Subaro under the hot sun of a morning in March ?” I did, but most of all I have lived. In that atmosphere I enjoyed listening to the life of George tell his wine and then hearing him say: “Godo di questo momento.”

I reproduce below a passage of “The Winegrowers historical” Luigi Veronelli and Nichi Stefi, Giorgio Grai gave me the day of our meeting.

"Giorgio Grai appears with the detached air of one who does not want to belong to anyone and is willing to pay for his freedom with the isolation. He has a ready wit, often caustic, always fun; but beneath the laughter reads his desire for precision. His adventure in wine is not only the result of a great and evident pleasure, but the continuous work of which he is aware and which offers you like the most obvious thing in the world ... "

The recipe : “The grape hyacinth in the oven”

My father's name was Aldo. He was born on 12 March 1933 in a village of Mantua. A creative artist of marble with a great passion for his work… when it is turned off, it was off him.

Blessed is he who does not lose his passion ...

I have left him a few objects. A camera that has stopped many moments of my childhood, an old frame that accompanied us during our travels, e un’armonica a bocca. I remember that for years, after he left, I often stopped to smell the smell of the wood on which rested his lips to play it. There came a day when I have not heard more ...

He loved his job, loved traveling, adorava music, loved the wine and food, loved to ride Forest to seek mushrooms… A difficult character that has made our relationship sometimes confrontational although still intense and deep.

I can only say for sure that, when he left he, isn’è went a piece of my heart.

“The conflicting reports may be true and profound, because in them, everyone plays their true essence in search of harmony with the essence of others…” Alessandra Paolini

It's been so many years, but for me it's like it was yesterday. Today, the day of his birthday I want to remember him with the scents and flavors of memory that, brought me back to the past with the mind, remind me of the time that was ...

In addition to love very omelettes, that he prepared meticulously, I particularly remember a wild onion, the lampascione, he had learned to appreciate and cook from his mother. Io stessa ne vado ghiottissima se trovo chi sa prepararlo senza che il caratteristico sapore amarognolo abbia il sopravvento.

Despite its name reacquaint dialect often obtuse habit of giving to someone, its culinary and medicinal properties belie any references linked to this practice.

This vegetable grown almost exclusively in the southern regions, in order to be collected in need of at least four years of growth. Besides helping to lower the fat and sugar in the blood, has anti-inflammatory properties and laxative.

But now we come to the preparation of “lampascioni baked”

• Start with clean lampascioni depriving them of the outer coating.

• Then proceed by keeping them in water for about six hours, so as to make them lose a little 'bitter taste of.

• Drain, asciugarli, and start grooving to the base with a screwdriver.

• Finally, arrange them on a greased baking sheet and pass them to the oven and cook them at 180 'for about half an hour.

• Season with extra virgin olive oil, good one, sale, garlic, and chilli.

I,  li adoro!

“Each of us has his madeleine, the flavor that reminds him of the better age. It's not just regret the flavors of yesteryear, but a state of grace to recreate. A search of lost time… And when we can, try a wonder child, a childlike joy that makes us squint pleasure ... it is finding time ...” Marino Niola, anthropologist

Andi Fausto,  owner of the farm run biodynamic located in Montù Beccaria.

In my amateur group "Le Vigne-tte" speaks often of wine, nature, and territory. I must say that I am pleased to share their thoughts with "big" personalities. Large say ...?!  For me they are, for their belief in the land and people. The greatness belongs to the simple, needs no sparks or hype… belongs to those who live in the truth, ethics, and honesty.

Well, a few days ago while we were discussing natural wines intervened friend Teresio Nardi, trustee of the Slow Food:  “In Oltrepà there is a small producer who works with very little chemistry in the vineyard (Verderame e Zolfo) and, for some wines, without addition of bisulphite. Gets out of the box standard products do not always appreciated by the tasters official, but it is worth to taste. It's called Andi Fausto”.

Fausto Andi

As I often say, and here I repeat myself, I always follow the advice of people I respect in my path of knowledge, so that, picked up the phone on the spot, and, After a nice chat stared at a meeting. Fausto know it was a real pleasure, although I must admit that, although who knows me will hardly believe, I found who talk more than me! 😉

The biodynamic farm Andi Fausto over the years has recovered native vineyards and historic vines thanks to the family winemaking tradition handed down. During my visit I was struck by the story of the birth of the barrel teaching. Understanding the importance of the wood is of fundamental experience.

Fausto told me how, il famoso bottaio “Cassi” di Casabianca di Montù Beccaria, taught him to address issues important to the influence of the wood that you want to give your wine. These teachings have resulted in 2007 to know Peter Garbellotto, that, after having listened to and appreciated the content of requests for Fausto, realized his cellar teaching. Peter Garbellotto, one of the most well-known Venetian entrepreneurs in the global wine industry has disappeared in the 2011 a 88 age; the artisan Cooper Conegliano (TV) dubbed "the king of barrels”.

Winery Azienda Agricola Fausto Andi

During the visit to the cellar, Fausto when he asked me what wine I wanted to try my answer was readily: “Red and character!"I've tasted the 'Alianum vendemmia 2007, 18 degrees, a handcrafted wine as he defines it obtained from Moradella,  a vine historical who recovered. A red wine, hot, particular, enveloping, I really liked.

In his stories I was struck by an expression he used, and which I fully – the loss of the ability of the farmer's observation – the wisdom of interpretation in the observation of the sky and weather conditions so that influivano on the conduct of agricultural activities.

A man "out of the fray”, and not only for his thoughts ... This definition corresponds to the name of one of his assistance project. The purpose is to promote the integration of people through a workshop that brings together groups dedicated to the transformation of the company's products, and circuits for organic growing.

The laboratory social farming born in 2006, allows "employees" in a familiar environment carrying out the activities for the production of jams, Vegetable soups, fruit juices, over which the singular decoration of bottles intended for a targeted distribution.

“You do and let them talk”

Andi Fausto