The truffle, the precious underground fungus 'spontaneous' that our area boasts among its excellence. A product of the land by the heady fragrance and a long history. As Aristotle wrote, a fruit sacred to Aphrodite, decanted from ancient times.

Amandone the aromas and delicate flavors, Wednesday 17 September, I accepted with pleasure the invitation to the opening of TARTUFI & FRIENDS, the new truffle lounge in Milan located in the prestigious Palazzo Serbelloni, after a year and a half, followed the opening of the Rome office.

Among a sample and the other, by Chef Marco Fossati, in a refined setting of 250 square meters designed by architect Laura Franco, I immersed myself in the retro atmosphere entirely dedicated to the precious tuber. But not only, I also liked the call of nature with the vertical garden, and the vision of the prints of the 1500 in the room 'explorer' that describe the history of time.

Framers of everything and Alberto Angelo Sermoneta, already working on the next opening in the 2015 an office in London and Dubai, to bring this Italian excellence to be known in the world.

A taste but also knowledge, as it should be for someone like me who loves to go beyond the tasting of a product.

To assess the quality of a truffle must be based on 'view, smell and touch '. They must be clean so that the gravel does not cover the defects. At the touch must be compact but with a slight note of elasticity, while the nose the smell is perceptible only in the time of ripening. Its aromas are reminiscent of the garlic, mushroom and damp earth.

There are many species, but the white truffle of Alba white, Tuber Magnum Pico, is the most valuable and larger. Piedmont is the region in which it is no longer present, but can also be found in Lombardy, Pavese hills dell'Oltrepò, in Mantua, e sia pur rarissimamente nell’Italia centrale. Senza togliere l’indiscussa corona al tartufo bianco cito ad esempio i tartufi neri pregiati reperibili fino a Marzo, or between April and May whitebait, or July the scorzoni.

The truffle hunter, in Piedmont is called with the dialect term trifolau o trifulé,  Search the precious fungus from September to January. Italian legislation provides that the collection is free, whether it takes place in the woods than in the uncultivated land.

The white truffle is cleaned well but do not peel. Unlike the black should not be cooked. It is used as a condiment, cutting it into thin slices of lightly seasoned dishes. It contains about 80% water. It is rich in potassium, soccer, sodium, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper. Anyway, its value does not impact significantly on the contribution food.

We recommend keeping it wrapped in a paper towel and in a cool environment with a temperature of 3 to 6 degrees. To ensure the product is sold in a numbered bag due to the origin of origin.

TARTUFI & FRIENDS

Corso Venezia, 18 – Milan
www.tartufiandfriends.it

In this article we will talk about sewage sludge is used in agriculture, common rules in the production of rice, of its drying and old varieties. But also of honey and a product that I care very: Farinaccio. Chi vuole essere consumatore consapevole e informato ha gli strumenti per farlo.

I know for a long time Dino Massignani, the Director of 'Farm Wildlife Reserve St. Maximus. Despite this, the spring that prompted me to visit this production of rice is taken when I saw some pictures of the Reserve, but especially after a recent chat with Dino about 'sludge'. Exactly so, sewage sludge is used in agriculture. A question muddy, or better, a matter of recycling in my opinion unclear. To be honest, after listening, I realized that neither of clarity there is little in many things, also in the production of rice.

The one thing that I can tell you is what my eyes have seen: a naturally beautiful and unspoilt. A perfect ecosystem with a wide natural wooded area, tra fauna, rogge, marshes, farmland, paddy fields and fruit trees. An area of ​​the Lombard Park of the Ticino Valley in which 2004 has been recognized as a Site of Community. Reserve a special protection for the preservation of different species of animals and plants protected by the International Union for the Conservation of Endangered Species.

Farm Wildlife Reserve St. Maximus

E 'is the environment in which the rice is born of the Reserve San Massimo. I would be 800 acres of property (and almost as rent) that use the old procedures in respect of the structure of the soil and the natural habitat. For all this it is essential that the human hand intervenes so wise and clever. The experience is essential, especially at a time like this, when the climatic conditions are particularly changeable.

A life devoted to agriculture that requires dedication, love and respect for nature. Although I take a little 'around Dino Massignani (call it the Cracco rice), I could see how to take his job seriously. Born into a family of farmers, could have no other destiny. As I often say ... the land called those who love the earth.

This fern is present in the reserve Osmunda Regalis. A protected species and anti-pollution. It is in fact capable of absorbing harmful pollutants.

Ma gold a rent to the oral ...

• Hello Dino, we begin to explore the question of sewage sludge. I myself I was not aware of before you I speak. I better explain the origin of this mass recycled in agriculture, but especially, is analyzed before being distributed on the land?

Sewage sludge problem ... nice. In Italy, our parliament has legislated that the solid mass created by the processing of water purification plants, both domestic and industrial, you can deploy (after processing and blending) in agricultural fields.

The problem is that those who made use (foolishly), has found only one soil pollution, especially of heavy metals.  The law provides that the controller of this spreading is the same company that pays the farmer to be able to distribute these substances on its land. The only obligation is to deliver the analysis of each field made before and after spreading.

You can easily understand that make the controller itself is from the fairy tale world. Do you think that the companies if they find indices of pollution in the soil they bring their? I just tell you that in a few years planted cereals are not even grown, or during the growing season the plants were sick to the point that the farmer had to intervene tripling treatments (chemical) to save part of the crop.

The Reserve San Massimo, a perfect ecosystem

• As I wrote, after listening to you, I realized that clarity in the production of rice there is little or.  This easily explains the difference in the final cost of the rice that unfortunately the consumer can not perceive. Mistake?

Exact, the world's rice is very nebulous, and many benefit, even the most unthinkable. Suffice it to say that there is no requirement for traceability of the product. Do you think that from anywhere in the world Arrivals the company name appears on the packaging, is not obliged to mention the source.

There are no controls on the values ​​of plant protection (this also happens on cereals used for pasta), and is still granted despite the drying oil releases a quantity of heavy metals on the grain. Clearly is favored by companies for tax relief arising therefrom compared to paying full price for the supply of gas.

The biggest joke for the consumer then, is related to the sales name signed on the box. It should be clarified that it is not related to the variety packed. Let me explain: every sales name signed on the box does not guarantee the variety inside, because a law allows for canning and other varieties such as spacciarle. A law that benefits only the smart ones who want to keep consumers in the dark.

Baldo Rice Reserve Superfino San Massimo, ideal for soups

• I like to go to the source of everything, I need to understand. The same thing goes for production. Everything comes from the seed. You told me that your certificate is. What guarantees this certification?

In order to sell a variety of rice each company, earlier in the season, RISI institution must declare the areas sown with the specification of the variety. This is used only to let the rice mills, that will sell rice, availability throughout the year is how much of that particular variety.

But mainly serves for the will, which are intended for years, to standardize the rice cereal (have much say in the matter inside the 'BODY RISI).

We will, own to protect ourselves, There autoriproduciamo the seed of authentic Carnaroli that we bought years ago from an elderly farmer and that we are certified by ENSE. (Internet show Naz. The seeds Elected) which guarantees the authenticity.

Rice fields

• Now let's talk about rice drying. Many do not know that can take place with the aid of methane gas plants (the system used by you) o a gasolio. Some, brings a difference on the final costs, but also on the grain and our health. Am I right?

Some, in agriculture there are discounts on the purchase of diesel fuel for the use of agricultural vehicles, and when in the company is used for the drying of cereals. Unfortunately, diesel and paraffin releases PM 10 (Particulate matter, ie in small particles) so there is nothing to greet use it for drying rice.

I spiego. The heated air from the burner is in contact with the grains penetrating. The drying process is done to reduce the humidity percentage of the same, which by law must be the 11-12 % with heat shock. And 'to offer a quality product far superior that we decided to use only with the drying gas, despite its cost is at full price with no concessions.

Silos ventilated with air recycling where corn does not rest on the ground

• The Italians know mostly Carnaroli rice, the variety ideal for risotto. In fact there are many other. For example, the ancient rice variety 'Rosa Marchetti' of your production, ideal for soups. How come there are few farmers who would devote?

 The 'Rosa Marchetti' is an ancient variety abandoned by farmers as they reached maturity, it entices (intertwined) easily. This year we are experiencing a fertilizer with the decomposition of organic herbs, completely excluding the use of chemical products. Surely we will produce 1/5 of what they produce other companies, but it will be a unique Rosa Marchetti for health and goodness.

• Walking around I saw many tireless workers industrious: le api. Let's talk about honey, I mean your ...

 The San Massimo Reserve is a unique environmental reality for its biodiversity that we guarantee daily attivandoci to protect it. This has meant that in recent years has become a destination, as well as visitors and University professors, of beekeepers who live problems of survival of bees locate in other places. For this reason we decided to look for serious people who have the same philosophy on our respect for life forms, to produce honey.

The choice fell on doctors Marianna Paulis Tui and Anna Blacks, which by now have moved all their hives in San Massimo, undertaking a painstaking work and quality, and excluding any chemical treatment on bees (this is not obvious, rather…)

Feeding bees to honey, and not with loaves with chemicals or water and sugar, led in time over which to have a natural product 100 %, a positive response in the labor force of bees that surprised even their. Any living being that lives and feeds in a healthy place, can only feel good.

The production of acacia honey, view the rain, it is a bit 'reduced, but still remains very high quality. Definitely will not be enough for the request. The certainty is that we accept these risks because we only sell our product (I certainly do not buy from other, to resell them as our).

Le api. the tireless workers of the Reserve

• One last question Dino. There is a by-product (so they call it the most though for me it is not at all), I love it because it is rich in nutrients. Very loving and very little natural medicine drugs (where not necessary) is soon explained the reason. A great natural supplement nutty flavor. Some call it middlings and who rice germ. How do you call, and especially, use it?

It Cinzia, in technical jargon by riseria takes the name of farinaccio. Some people masquerading as rice germ, even if only partially can boast this definition. In fact, one part is composed of the 1st and 2nd pericarp, that is the film that covers the white rice, not to be confused with the husk, which is the outer husk of rice.

The middlings is very nutritious and healthy (of course always depends on who produces rice, if not chemically treated, and how it is dried). Attention to the word 'healthy' is now on everyone's lips. This definition should be guaranteed by analysis. To answer your question on the use we make of it, you just say that in recent times we have sent to some chefs directing on how to use. We have other ideas about, but it is still too early to reveal ...

These are the answers to a producer who I met before at events and then, I like it, in person on the field, in reality living. With Dino remained pending a promise. As soon as possible I want to do a 'safari in the reserve'. Exactly so, I saw a pristine nature of such beauty that I need to live it again, but in my own way: in the silence, using my senses ... armed only with my camera.

Farinaccio Reserve San Massimo: 1/2 pericarp more rice germ

Omelette Rice bran and Honey

Today I start with this challenge since, more than a chef friend, revealed to me that Italians tend not to order the fruit to the restaurant to avoid possible embarrassment in eating. Them to them this statement has left me a bit 'puzzled, then, pensandoci bene, it led me to reflect. It is possible that one of the reasons this may be? Mah, I do not believe, also because I personally do not see the problem. Manners and etiquette not find it beautiful to touch food with their hands. It 'a more comprehensive way to taste.

The fruit… nice, colored, good, full of vitamins! An important resource that gives us our agriculture. I would always see the offering of breakfasts, anywhere, in town and country, in restaurants and bars. Lately I have begun to ask for a meal in the restaurants. Well, and dramma, and I'm not joking! Some are even without. It would be just to change things! A basket at the end of the meal without having to ask, is more than a duty!

I can already hear the boos… It’ useless to make those faces, I know well that it is advisable to eat between meals! You have to admit, however, that in any case it is a viable alternative to ultra-calorie desserts often we weigh and easy on the digestion. Some will say - ma eats, a statement like this from a woman like you greedy? - Sure, I've never hidden, but not to give up sweets I confine myself in the main meals. The fruit, however, is the fruit, I adore u, and I can not do without! 😉

That said, for the fanatics of etiquette and to avoid making gaffes, make a ripassino on correct ways of eating at the table.

First, it should clean and served accompanied by a saucer, a knife and a fork (Except for some exceptions).

• Citrus: After cutting the two sections at the poles, it affects the peel with a knife, and with the same peeling. The slices are eaten with the hands holding the seeds in the same post near the mouth of the funnel.

• Watermelon: After removing the seeds with a knife, you eat sliced ​​with a fork.

• Banana: The Etiquette says to eat it you should not use the knife. However it is advisable to make a cut lengthwise and then with the help of a fork to Comminute.

• Cachi: Cut in half and eat with a spoon.
  

• Cherries: You eat holding them by the stem. The core should be held in the hand placed near the mouth of the funnel.
  

• Figs: Once cut in four parts, you eat with a fork.
  

• Strawberries: Bringing you eat with your hands to your mouth.
  

• Kiwi: Cut into wedges with a knife and eat with a fork.
  

• Mela / Pera: Before you peel cut into wedges, then you eat with a fork.
  

• Melon: Cut into slices and eat with a fork.
  

• Fishing: If you eat peeled proceed as for apple.
  

• Grape: You eat holding the bunch in his hand and pulling the berries with your fingers. The seeds you hold with your hand placed near the mouth of the funnel.
  

What about… all free. I for one know that if you come to dinner with me,,it,you must be prepared to My spontaneous and innocent gaffe,,it,bon ton,,en,Galateo,,en,Eating at the table,,it, dovete essere pronti alle mie gaffe spontanee e innocenti! A tavola, and not only, I make several! 😉

Dairy products ... I love them! I speak of milk and its derivatives. Foods rich in calcium, of protein and B vitamins. But beware, not all are good.

Did you know that in the case of disease to bone the best choice is to not take dairy products or derivatives? Well you! Although we have grown up with the belief that milk is good for the bones take preventing osteoporosis, things are a bit’ diverse.

To clarify the question I asked the intervention of Sara Cordara, nutritionist and specialist in food science.

Hello Cynthia, then, I start by saying that it just seems to increase the calcium intake with supplements or dairy products and derivatives does not improve the health of bones and runs instead to create a variety of problems, sometimes even serious. I would call it almost “paradigm of the calcium in milk”.

When we take too much calcium in the diet, this implies a reduced capacity of absorption of magnesium. It's the magnesium that regulates the hormones responsible for bone health. And it is a magnesium deficiency that affects the enzymes that ensure good bone health.

Excess calcium can lead to magnesium deficiency, which in turn reduces the activity of the enzyme phosphatase, essential for the absorption of calcium in the bones. The enzyme phosphatase in milk has been completely destroyed by pasteurization.

This is why bone health is reduced by consuming milk instead of the raw commercial or maternal. For this reason, the marketing of milk has led in all countries, an increase of the phenomenon of bone fractures!

There's all right, state tranquilli! It 's just that the issue here is complicated, or better, says Matthew Knowles, the issue here is primarily political. Let's understand something, I mean us consumers.

I remember long ago, visiting a farm here in Brianza, I was struck by the anger with which he spoke to me the owner. Too many bureaucratic loopholes ... too many difficulties in conducting. Mi these: “Cynthia, I knew how many times I'm tempted to sell! And 'everything became so difficult in Italy!”

I keep saying that there is a key word in all this: 'Sburocratizzare'. But not only, which c’è another word that complicates things: 'Milk quota'.

I would say at this point to make a short refresher since their introduction.

• The 'milk quotas' were introduced in 1984 by the European Union for control of surplus production and to set annual caps of the member countries.

• The maximum ceilings for individual countries refer to the quantity marketed. Exceeding these limits creates a criminal.

• The method of allocation of the roofs of the units has emerged strong from the start controversy. Some EU countries had shares exceeding their requirements, while others including Italy, was assigned a quota equal to half of domestic consumption. Something is wrong ...

• Infringements by farmers were inevitable, resulting in convictions of the European Court of Justice.

• Subsequently, in 1994, were modified roofs reference comparing them to the production 1988/89 and 1991/92 of individual farms.

• The roofs were, however, still exceeded despite a further increase in the next.

• Between 1995 and the 2001 you are so accumulated fines for a total of 924 millions of euro, referred 276 excluded from amnesty, 486 by the state and 162 by the farmers. (source Confagricoltura)
  

• Meanwhile, because of this situation, the number of firms è scesa da 150 mila a 66 thousand.

At this starting point the question arises: “But because farmers knowing of experiencing such heavy penalties continued to exceed their roof productive?

He answered and livestock nutritionist Paul Barberio.

– Cynthia, if farmers would produce less than they would have no choice but to close their businesses. Regrettably fixed costs, beyond that to affect significantly, have increased over the years in a dizzying.

Paul, you are a grower, but follow farmers as livestock for the nutritional aspect of the animals. What do you feel you are advised producers?

– To stand united. Businesses close together should unite to use instrumentation in common, or even to put together the herds. This applies to companies 60/100 leaders in a single system. Unfortunately costs incurred in the activities have soared, such as that of agricultural diesel, which in ten years has more than doubled. The times have changed, unfortunately,. Up to twenty years ago with thirty cows each farmer bought three acres of land every year ... now to take thirty, you have to sell three acres of land ...

A special thanks to Paul for helping me to understand Barberio. The issue is actually much more complicated. Self-declarations and miscalculations, led to a non-correspondence of the calculation of the roofs. Perhaps it would be to take up the issue by recalculating shares more parallel. Perhaps, more ...

___________________________________________________________

Source: Confagricoltura    

• L’insalata, even if formed by 90% of water, is a good source of fiber, vitamine e sali mineralized.

• Make carotenoids, antioxidants that prevent degenerative diseases.

• Per se has few calories, However, the amount condiment conditioned which is used.

Personally I love the salads, especially those mixed! Too bad that often, when I order at the restaurant, I get two green leaves and a few tomatoes! 🙁

Well, you know what I mean by mixed salad? More of everything, or better, un’insalata a foglie verdi, vegetables, frutta fresca e secca… of course, all in accordance with the seasonal.

Having said this I must point out a really good, un’insalat…ona that one evening I prepared a Friend. 🙂

L’Insalat…ona Augustine

Ingredients:

• Salad Chioggia

• Grated carrots

• Cherry vine tomatoes

• Night

• Golden apple cut into thin slices

• Olives

• Pine Nuts

• Sesame seeds and fennel seeds toasted in a pan

Combine all ingredients and season with extra virgin olive oil, good vinegar and salt q.b.

A Vera Bonta !

These days I ate too much chocolate… uff, I have a face full of pimples!

I still remember when ... let me think, here is, I have been sixteen, in an afternoon of total boredom (even then could not sit still) I made a powerful concoction made with chocolate. I had used so much, but so much, chocolate to make a truly explosive! Well, a few days after the explosion occurred, one, but with a giant pimple! 🙁

My father took me to the doctor, that, soon as he saw, sent me to the hospital for direct etching. Fairly embarrassing situation, one, because the location was not the most sympathetic. I can not forget the episode, also because, thanks to the scar that has remained (fortunately not visible to most) I can not.

Anyone who knows me knows I am greedy ...! I can not get it to start it to close the day, without having eaten a cake! That said, to return to the chocolate, I recommend, do not like me, do not overdo it!

A short but good and all, the secret is to stay healthy! 🙂

Did you know that ...

• Chocolate is made from the fruit of the cacao tree, a plant native to South America, whose scientific name is Theobroma cacao, in greco, food of the gods. The Aztecs 3000 years ago, used these seeds as coins.

• There's chocolate, and chocolate! Favouring a quality that contains at least 70 percent cocoa.

• And 'rich in antioxidants, substances that slow the aging process.

• Being very energetic, is an excellent food to recharge. And 'even included in the diet of astronauts during space missions.

• And 'rich in fat: provides 500 calories each 100 grams

• Chocolate contains caffeine: 125 grams of dark chocolate contain an amount of caffeine equal to that contained in a cup of coffee.

• Thanks to phenylethylamine, a chemical found in cocoa, il cioccolato ha delle proprietà antidepressive, therefore improves mood.

Source: 'Foods that are good, foods that are bad '- Tom Sanders professor of nutrition and dietetics at King's College, University of London

Well you! I have learned from my grandfather Joseph, a Mantua Doc!

Di lui, as well as the mythical playing cards that I got as a child, I have left some of the teachings, as the habit of using the spoon to roll the noodles, or to put a pinch of salt on the melon to make it sweeter, o infine, to put a little 'wine broth.

I remember many years ago, when, one morning getting up for breakfast, I saw it for the first time to drink the broth in which he had put a drop of wine. Imagine my face…: “Grandfather, but you do?! Put the wine in the broth, and, moreover, drink it at breakfast?!

Many will know that this custom is practiced in some provinces of Lombardy, Emilia and Piedmont. Add the wine to the broth, I mean what good, that certainly did not die with the, for Mantua and not only is it a real tradition! 😉

That said, the assumption that the stock should be good, I would say that we follow the recipe recommends a dear friend, Chef Massimo Dellavedova.

The Meat broth Massimo Dellavedova

Ingredients:

• 1 kg of cow adultery (real, brisket, pulp shoulder, scamone)
• 500 Article. cappone (it's good chicken)
• 1 large onion
• 2 gambi in Sedano
• 1 carota average
• 2 cloves
• 3 bay leaves
• 4 black peppercorns
• A little salt
• 4,5 the. of water

Preparation:

• Peel vegetables and capon (chicken)
• Picketing the onion with the cloves
• Put everything in a large pot
• Simmer for at least 3 hours skimming with a slotted spoon each time froth. I would recommend not boil.
• When cooking over, filtrarlo, fix it with salt and cool. Once cold degrease. This is simply because the fat has solidified on the surface.

In this way you will obtain three liters of broth.

Yes, the typical Christmas sweet of Milan was born from a love story, at least as described in the legends. A dolce love you, and not just for Christmas ...

Last night at the Restaurant Il Fauno Cesano Maderno, the protagonist was just Panettone.

Along with Franco Hat Pasticceria Elisa Seveso, there has been talk of its ingredients, of its preparation techniques, and its history.

That said, did you know that the Panettone is born from a love story?

Well you! Let me tell you ...

It is said that Hugh of Antellari, the nobleman falconer of Ludovico il Moro, was in love with Adalgisa, the beautiful daughter of Toni, a baker in Milan.

A love lived in secret, opposed by the noble family of him, who did not take kindly to the girl, because of humble origins.

Adalgisa, against the other, having to help his father in the shop due to the absence of sick boy, was often too tired to meet up with her lover.

To overcome this,, Ugo, worn clothing humble, came from his father pretending to be a boy in search of work. But things still did not go well: a new shop had opened a short distance causing a loss of customers.

It was then that he realized that Hugh, to increase sales, the quality of the bread was improved. Secretly gave two falcons court, and with the proceeds bought some butter in the dough by introducing it. It was a success!

Not content with, under the Christmas holidays, decided to also add to the egg, sultana raisins and pieces of candied citron. The result was a very special "pan del Toni" from which originated the name Panettone.

Although now comes in many variations, I love the classic, the fact that following the traditional recipe of a time.

As a young girl I was living in a house with lots of fruit trees. One day my father, having to expand a garage, was about to sacrifice one: a persimmon tree.

I liked them so much! I remember we pulled them down from the November, then let them ripen slowly resting them on long wooden planks.

In trying to eat the kernels that riponevo then carefully by. I was anxious to make me open up to my father to see the shape of small resting who routinely found. If I have to be honest ... this thing I can still! 😉

Well say, as he finished the story ... then the tree was sacrificed?

My father found a way of not making me do it, as you can imagine, delighted! The building was enlarged, but with a persimmon tree sticking up from the roof. Well you! My father was a great! 🙂

In addition to to share with you one of my childhood memory, did you know that the khaki ...

• Persimmons are native to China and Japan. They arrived in Europe in the late nineteenth century.

• They are an excellent source of beta-carotene, of vitamin C and potassium.

• They are rich in sugars, therefore a good source of energy. Apportano circa 60 Kcal per ogni 100 grams.

• Persimmons are a fruit because its biological plant does not need pesticide treatments.

• The oral cachi the result indicates that the singular and plural. Anyway, even if erroneously, in common parlance it is now customary to use the word shard to indicate the result of the singular.

About, vanilla or apple persimmon persimmon, from the pulp much firmer, are also good, but of a different variety.

Source: 'Foods that are good, cibi che fanno male’ – Tom Sanders professor of nutrition and dietetics at King's College, University of London