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Agronomist and also Farmer, Winemaker e anche Cantiniere, Italian but also Catalan… lui è Marco Bernava

Giacomo Leopardi, My favorite poet wrote: “I am convinced that even at the last moment of our lives each of us can change one's destiny…” I firmly believe. To do so, the only solution is to let go, and experience all that you can live ...

There fraintendetemi, I do not do crazy things, but if I find myself in front of I take the opportunity to fly. I learned how to do the last two years life, and I assure you it is really worth. Alike, when he seeks a person to know, that is presented to me for its uniqueness, I do not ever pull back. It 'a journey into the souls, often very intimate and exciting. The result is a personal enrichment of knowledge and experience, which offers a real moment of life… So one day a friend told me about Mark Bernava, Italian winemaker in the land of Spain.

I met him first on the phone, and then subsequently for months and months with a mail exchange. Sometimes with real disappointments, sometimes with positions taken by ... a true and sincere friendship that has grown over time, and that led me to get attached more and more to the person who was learning to know, and to appreciate. We had promised to meet us at the earliest opportunity of. Well a few weeks ago, the same friend who put me in touch with him, with an apology prompted me to go outside the building where I was for a small thing to solve. You have no idea of ​​my expression when I saw him at the door. I hugged him strong, happy and excited as long it did not happen…

Vigneti Bernavi'

Vigneti Bernavi’

Vi presento Marco Bernava, il mio caro Marco, a man of the earth, and wine ...

  • Framework, the first time that I spoke to you on the phone I asked you to tell me a little 'tea. Your words to me were enough to understand. Imagine going back in time, was the 19 December 2011. "Hello Marco Cinzia, I have spoken to you, tell me ...?”

"It 's a good question! - I said to myself - how can I sum up all my concerns in a phone call without appearing a fool?”. And now I find myself with the same dilemma, but the title of our talk nicely sums up some of the central aspects of my "tell". I 35 age, I was born in Milan and graduated in Agricultural Science and Technology with a thesis in viticulture and enology. I tasted wine personally and professionally Italy from north to south to mature the idea of ​​the challenge, and very addictive: “Diventare wine producer!”.

Here's my be proudly Italian, agronomo e winemaker. But as a great lover of the natural system in which I live, and I believe that agriculture is an integral part of the real road dell'esserne, I decided to go a step further my studies and become even farmer, viticulturist and winemaker. I decided to do it in the ground Catalan (Spain), I work in the vineyards and in the cellar of our properties, driven by a passion for wine, with my partner Ruth (the true Catalan), and my brother Gino.

  • Where does your passion for the land and for viticulture?

I am deeply convinced that every human being has the need for contact with the earth and with nature. Do you know why a person sees when he goes to the mountains and a forest, or see a cultivated field and lush, o un bel frutteto, it feels so good that spontaneously exclaims: "How wonderful place"? For the green color that gives us this feeling. It is shown that the mere sight of green vegetation, is associated in the depths of our ancestral brain abundance: “Vegetation means water, means the presence of animals, means food”. That's why when we process from concrete and asphalt, we feel good.

We are part of nature, but we have lost consciousness”.

With this preamble to answer because of my passion for the land: “I feel part of me!” In addition to study ecological systems, beings, plants and animals from a biological point of view and then technology and applications, grants you the luxury to better understand the natural world and the role of the human being as a part of this world. The then understand how to take advantage of the natural resources in an intelligent way to create food will reveal the intersection of the biological cycles and the essence of ecology. Also, my family origins are related to agriculture, and I think it's in my genes has awakened this desire to resume the chapters started by my grandparents.

My passion for viticulture is quickly told. The plants of the genus Vitis have a special charm, a very complex physiology that makes an ecology of plants with interesting and with enormous potential. The domestication of plants of lives over the centuries is one of the most important traditional and cultural baggage that we. The results that today we can appreciate wine tasting, derived from a long and tortuous. And of course this is also part of the wine with its practices both natural and complex, precisely because of their natural.

Vigneti Bernavi'

Vigneti Bernavi’

  • There is a person who has influenced you in your choices?

My parents designed to work in the service sector in Milan; because I have always sacrificed and Gino early age, we could enjoy the green color, could swim in the sea or in lakes, could escape from the city, and we could keep the bond with nature. Their, and the rural origins of my grandparents, have kept alive in me the love for the land, and have certainly influenced the choice to hijack my journey on the primary sector.

My studies have now approached the viticulture and oenology, one of the branches of agribusiness more advanced level of study and knowledge acquired. Actually, browsing in the many rooms of the primary sector, a framework struck me so lightning… amore a prima vista say: “The Vineyard!"And to mark permanently the interest in deepening my knowledge about the vineyard, was a man at a conference: Attilio Scienza. His vision of local wine, and the role of agronomic management system in the wine also deriving from the principles of the great Mario Fregoni, I was immediately captured by. I recognize that are the basis for the elaboration of the "my"By wine.

  • Tell me about your career in Italy?

Tortuous and will soon give. After graduation, I had the good fortune to work with the Di.Pro.Ve. of the Faculty of Agriculture of Milan. To my way of being, I think the academic career I do not particularly suited to 25 age. The desire to touch the daily life of winemaking has prompted me to look for work as an agronomist business. After some experiences in Friuli and Tuscany I landed in Le Marche, and I started working with Antonio Terni at Fattoria Le Terraces. Here I was able to collaborate in the creation of great wines, with great technical, with a great team of people, and a great Antonio. My thirst for experiences led me also in southern Italy in the Vulture area, and then return to Bergamo. But now I had to deal with my real goal, and in my thirst no longer domabile to build my personal project.

  • What led you to produce wine in the land of Spain?

My relationship with Spain (better said with the Calalunya) is dated 1996, year when I met Ruth. This land has great potential in my opinion, many unexplored. For a young and restless at the beginning like me, land was a "possible" to start such an important project. L 'Italy with the development of the sector over the last twenty years land has become difficult for small developers, especially if they are young and "unknown", unless you go to areas where the establishment of a stranger is difficult for reasons more social than economic (and I talk about reality experienced and well-known because of my origins). Spain leaves some door open location in part to the economic feasibility of certain investments, and partly due to an administrative and political will to want to keep young people in rural areas (this will, dictated by need and certainly not by altruism and justice; Spain is rural, and votes in the rural area have a weight different from that of urbanized regions).

Without going into speeches by the argument that it would divert wine, I summarize my answer with a game that turns out to be romantic and philological: “In Italian we distinguish the "viticulture" (namely the cultural baggage tied to the world wine) from "viticulture" (the cultivation of the vine); Spanish and Catalan, there is only the "viticulture”. And I am an engineer who finds himself in a place without "viticulture"!

  • "I live the wine." Are you like me blood and fighting. In your wine feels the character that marks you. When I drank the first time I had as a projection in my mind remembering your stories about the difficulties, the hardships and emotions to produce. Tell me about your wine?

If my motto is "in wine vivendo”, the lemma of the Cantina BERNAVÍ is "interpreting the local”. I think part you can give an explanation as to why!

“The wine is a reflection of who does it, technically, emotionally and philosophically. I try to convey to the bottle my interpretation of the potential of our vineyards, either by choosing varieties, considering that vintages

From the moment I decided to replant the varieties I made a choice interpretative. The agronomic management you have to model every year on the progress of climate and the objectives to be achieved. And the work in the winery must comply with the answers that every year each variety gives us (for better and sometimes for worse!), own to create an original wine, which is variable as a natural product. It is precisely the naturalness of the produced wine that has prompted me to not greet me in any product specification, and that makes me line up clearly against all the noise at the European level on the rules for qualification of wines. The wine BERNAVÍ want to be honest and straightforward like me, come noi!

We are three of us in this work and for the cellar bears our name. For this reason, the names of our wines are so immediate.

A white harvested at night to take advantage of the fresh south-west wind, and the moon that shines on calcareous soils: White Night. A red, result of the work of three young souls and coupage (cutting) three varieties as different as complementary, with vinifications ad hoc for each of them: 3D3. In itinere reserves in barrels of large volume, who will talk about the concentrations of which capable exceptional terroir this…

"The cup of wine has to tell the hard work in the vineyards cold winter and torrid summer, conditions in both extreme and fascinating; must tell curved backs of the screws trying to understand the needs of each plant, from pruning to harvest…” Marco Bernava

 




“The Prisoner” La Maison Anselmet

Visit the vineyards in Val D'Aosta is always an experience ... The fragmentation of plots, the varying altitudes, the picturesque terraced land at the sight they reflect on the hard work of the winemakers of Aosta Valley.

Always call heroic viticultureHeroes ... its men and its women who tenaciously working the land. When we paid an Aosta us look at wine with careful eyes. In tasting then, we will take all the determination, the effort and commitment of those who passionately makes the wines of the Val d'Aosta a proud Italian Tipicità.

The vineyards of House Anselmet A Villeneuve (AO), I'm proud testimony. I had the pleasure of being guided in my visit to Renato Anselmet that in 1978 wanted to give continuity to the family tradition to produce wine, and not just for himself. Chatting sitting in the tasting room told me: "I started with 70 bottles, now with George Anselmet, current "leader" of the Maison,  we got to 70,000 "

I was struck, in particular, the story of a vineyard "trapped" between two rock formations in the area of ​​production of DOC VDA Turrets.  Its special feature is the dual thermal excursion: "In the morning, surrounded by low temperatures during the day back. Then in the evening when the temperature tends to drop again, the heat of the rock held during the day mitigates this condition ". The result is The Prisoner, experiencing a wine produced in the wine-making method dates back to the documentation 1800.

A unique wine… is liberare…

“The bolt is like a son… if the feeling, if the love… se é tua, she will return to grow in its love that you gave… the cluster is expressed so”

Gabriele Gianni (Grower Villeneuve)

 




Vine Wine ...: I present to you Cristina Warlock

There are lives easier ... if Lives are lived. We live and grow up in pain, experience, in joy, in knowledge. Life in the Land of ... Vine Wine.

It was a summer morning when he was still sleepy, into thoughtless chatter with friends first planned the day. Suddenly the chef friend Fabio Mazzolini mi these: “You can not leave without knowing Cristina Deceptions of the winery La Cantrina!”

I always listen to good advice, my life is now conducted by word of mouth of people who know and show me the next step. I'm going, listening, and story, and at the end I would say: “Cynthia you need to know ..."It 's almost a ritual now, some call "path", I say it is just living life, moment by moment… deeply, as for me it has never been before. Just being rocked by the winds, sometimes good and sometimes bad ... but the wind never stops, pushes you, and raises you ...

I made arrangements over the phone, and Cristina arrived by early morning. I'm always very excited when I walk the road that leads to the knowledge of new places and people. They are my favorite adventures, I like to live it to myself to enjoy them fully… Just arrived at the destination I saw her slightly agitated. There was a bit 'of confusion due to the fact that the Cristina dog had just attacked with a sad outcome a rabbit out of the cage accidentally. The reaction of his children was that you can imagine ... As soon as the situation returned to normal, we set off to visit. After a look at the vineyard which generally contemplate on my own, as if it were a business card, went into the cellar, and began to tell them ...

cantrina-3

Cristina was intrigued by my need for discovery and learning. I explained that in this “My second life” knowledge is fundamental, is first of all ... nothing satisfies me and satisfies me more. Listen to the stories of the people is like a journey through time and space ...

From the basement, we moved into the tasting room, He told them of his wines and his life path. You are not born winemaker, his creativity had brought her the Academy of Fine Arts in Milan. He was the first husband Dario Dattoli in 1990 to undertake this activity. Dario Brescia known restaurateur and wine lover gave the initial impetus to the company, until one morning 1998 Cristina received a phone call. An accident with a mechanical means ended the life of her husband in the same vineyard that he loved so much.

We often take too much for granted… we do not realize that just a moment and everything changes, sometimes for better, sometimes for worse ... They are the tests to which life presents us, is for us to react and then get up again. Cristina Inganni ce l’ha fatta, took over in 'Azienda Agricola La Cantrina in 1998, six hectares of vineyards, which runs with the help of a fundamental Diego Lavo, expert grower. The Cantrina, the name of the small rural village of Valtènesi, in the municipality of Bedizzole (BS), the hinterland of Lake Garda.

His artistic training has given a creative activity both in the vineyard and in the winery activity. She likes to define it: A free exercise of free style ... because I like to be creative, exercise because exercise I call my wines, style because everyone has their own. It produces five varieties of wine: Sun Dario a sweet dessert wine, in memory of her first husband, Rina IGT Benaco Bresciano White, Corteccio Benaco Bresciano IGT Pinot Noir, Sedra Benaco Bresciano Rosso IGT and Nepomuceno Benaco Bresciano IGT Merlot. (IGT: IGT).

We ended up talking about my concerns on the expression “local”. This French term meaning the much-debated, expresses a territory in which the interaction of the physical and biological, and human factors, determines the typicality of a product. I would have to leave to the French their expression. We have our Italian, “the typical”, that harmonious combination of elements that man with wisdom and skill allows you to better express.

Typicality of the wine: “Expression of the experience of man applied to the vine, to the territory and climate”

At one point he said Cristina: “Cynthia, You need to talk to Angelo Peretti…” (editor of the online internetgourmet.it). The same afternoon well spent half an hour on the phone with Angelo. It was very comprehensive, ma… c’era ancora un “but” that untied by reading the definition of terroir given by Veronelli:

Is ... the song of the earth and the soul of the winemaker.

The wine is born first in my head, even before that in the vineyard, even before that in the cellar… You need to have an idea of ​​exactly how wine art… Cristina Deceptions




Enzymes DiVini moved ..., e fermi!

E dove non è vino non è amore… né alcun altro diletto hanno i mortali… Euripide (480-406 as. a.C.)

In effetti il termine vino ha origine dal verbo sanscrito vena, amare… e io il vino, Love It! This alcoholic beverage from the beginning of time arouses emotion, poetry… with its scent intoxicates the minds, diletta i palati, and gladdens life ...

But from the beginning ... what wine?

This nectar is an alcoholic beverage obtained by the fermentation, (chemical transformation of the fruit of the vine, l’uva) that triggers due to yeasts naturally present on the grape skin.

DiVini Brew ... everything has its origin from them ... Jack Kerouac, writer and poet U.S. said: There is wisdom in the wine. " And who would not!

There are still wines and sparkling wines ... The choice depends on subjective taste, Sometimes the intensity of the moment that you live. The wine accompanies us in the early stages of our lives, for me that I love him and live,  It is so ...

But I have to break the spell of poetry at this time to throw yet another stone on a term that just can not stand! A term that I do not make good wine culture, it diminishes ... a term that reminds me of a carbonated beverage! But we want to play! I just do not! I think you already know what word I mean ... When I hear myself say: "He wants a bubble?"My face makes those faces!!  “I say a bubble!?  But that bubble, io bevo vino!!

I would say at this point to make a short refresher, I recommend that the experts do not be offended ... The revision is for us consumers enthusiasts, those influencing the market ...

The wine can be stopped or moved.

– The wine closure generally only undergoes the fermentation in which sugars present in the must (liquid obtained from crushing grapes), are transformed into ethyl alcohol. But when you wish to give more softness, we proceed with the malolactic fermentation (with this step turns the harsh malic acid present in grapes, in less acrid lactic acid).

– I sparkling wines instead, undergo a second fermentation, fermentation carbon, with which the yeast precisely convert sugar into carbon dioxide giving rise to the presence of small bubbles. Most are rich, fine and persistent, More wine is quality.

The sparkling wines can be obtained with two methods:

  • With the Classical Method o Method Champenoise, the wine is fermented in the bottle after being supplemented with Drawing liquor, a mixture of wine with a well-determined quantity of cane sugar, yeast, and minerals. With this technique you are obtained moved quality wines that require a longer of the method described below fermentation time. more complex wines, wines throughout the meal…
  • With the Method Martinotti  (Federico Martinotti is the inventor of this technique dating back to 800) the Metodo Charmat (Eugene Charmat patented invention Martinotti),  Instead the second fermentation lasts a few months, and it takes place in large vessels or autoclaves with the addition of the same mixture of yeast. These wines are fresher, simple and fragrant…

Returning to the infamous bubbles someone will say: "Here's the break attack!" Bellows, I simply say what I think, always ready to change their minds if the proposal is better than mine ... and I'm not the only one. I quote some recent comments related to the topic…

  • Aldo Cannoletta, passionate and sommelier taster Fisar origin: “Cynthia, They are totally in tune with you, It is an expression unexpressed and disqualifying. A simplification simplistic and improper because the bubbles are present in all carbonated beverages.  We're talking about a product that began as a wine to become bubbles ...!!”
  • Marcello Malta, journalist, television host, editor in chief of magazine, sports columnist, responsible for preparation of two food and wine magazines, AIS Sommelier, wine judge: “Today with “bubbles” mixi wines like Prosecco, Franciacorta and even sparkling or those from lightweight pétillant (fizz). At least among those who know a little’ less…  Not to mention, then, of when the “bubbles” you call them “prosecchino” regardless of region, provenance, grapes and quality. One debacle! And at the end, lo sappiamo bene, The voice of the people, Vox Dei. Therefore the generation of the confusion has been going on for a while '. I would be about to delete it…”
  • Thomas Ponzanelli, passionate man who loves to tell how the earth carries the wine in the glass: “The term bubbles are tolerant when referring to sparkling wines or champagne in affectionate way ... Unfortunately in Italy we did not have the ability or sensitivity to value certain productions and give them a amenability to the territory and the method used. I think that the error consists in the word sparkling wine that is terribly generic. In France, the Champagne is a sparkling wine is identified only as a Champagne, and so with the Cremant d'Alsace or the Cremant de Bourgogne where there are great products but are not Champagne. I mean they should be identified with a particular area.”

I conclude, saying that it would be appropriate to tie the name of quality wines to the territory, but especially to the manufacturer. Generalizing only creates confusion continues, and does not reward those who work well and with commitment ...

Enzymes DiVini moved ..., and firm "

…the gentle humor of the grapes,
wet juice that raises the poor of every condolences, But when he will fill the lives of humor, and it gives in sleep oblivion of cotidiani evils; and other medication there is the labors…

 Euripides (480-406 as. a.C.)




The wine as I live ... “La Cascina I Carpini the Tortona hills”

The wine is much more than a drink, the wine is history, is thought, is a philosophy of life. This is my thought, this is my way of experiencing the wine.

I'm looking at a bottle of wine, or better a bottle of wine art. I focus on the label: Warm colors of autumn, ground, fire, of passion.

Seal on the coat of arms of the family that produces: Man, A Bandiera, crown. My gaze is fixed. I concentrate my. Memories of the past, of honor, of glory. Now I rotate the bottle, and read:

“A shining golden wine in the glasses that we love inebbriò, in your eyes blacks,  fire caught fire in a clearing "A. Bertolucci

A Barbera Superiore 2006 the Tortona hills V.Q.P.R.D. (quality wine produced in specified regions) of Paul Charles Ghislandi Cascina I Carpini.  Now I open the bottle and the fragrance free. Lo verso, and I appropriate the hints, and I get drunk in the memories.

Some time ago I visited the 'Farm Winery Cascina I Carpini dear friend of Paolo Carlo Ghislandi. Located Pozzol Groppo in the province of Alessandria, grants as well as a pleasant outing in the silence of the hills of Tortona,  a tasting of wines that Paul produced by combining technology and tradition.

Seven plates,  Bruma d'Autunno, Bonfire October,  Estate of Brezza, And the pale light of the Morning Dew On Boulder Sparkling Brut Martinotti, rather than names of wines, wines that evoke the nature, poetry and art.

 




Sipping Juice Grape… Today we talk about environment! Project Ita.Ca. ® (Italian Wine Carbon Calculator)

During my days of vacation in the lush land gardesana I said to myself: "Cinzia these days just relaxing ... lake, readings and talk ".  At these just I can not give up, in unless there is my dear friend and doctor Enzo Primerano con l’anestesia… ma totale 😉

Va be’, Now notice the jokes that we start with my story!

One morning he is chatting with Adriano Liloni in his club in Moniga "The Subversive of Taste", more than a name a program, but you will understand it going ;-),  after doing a bit 'of my classic folklore failing to stop myself I asked: “Adriano, listen a little '... but a niche of the right ones, with the right people ... and especially do "typical" visit, us?" Bellows,  names proposed many ... My curiosity but snapped when he said the name of a manufacturer "grape juice”.  I remember as a little girl in Treviso as I followed my uncle Edward in the vineyard, often I wondered: "Uncle, but because if the grape is a fruit can not be transformed into a juice?”.  He answered me that he was made to make wine, and the issue is closed.

But since, as they say, Curiosity is the engine of knowledge, keys inserted and ready ..., via!!

The Cascina Belmonte è un’azienda agricola che fonda la sua attività vitivinicola su un approccio di rispetto dell’ecosistema e di conservazione del territorio. Sette ettari di vigneto a Muscoline in provincia di Brescia, where I took a leisurely stroll while waiting for my guide, Enrico Di Martino, holder and agronomist.  Henry explained it in his vineyards is not used any herbicide treatment, insecticide, antibotritico ... so it points to a clean wine,  enough to wash the grapes before vendemmiarla!

The ecological vision in the vineyard favored the adoption of natural strategies that link to the respect of biodiversity aimed at environmental protection, It is a subject very dear to me and that I wanted to deepen.

  • Henry, you want to talk about it the project Ita.Ca.® (Italian Wine Carbon Calculator) designed to measure Carbon Footprint. What goals do you prefiggi adhering?

The project Ita.Ca.® is a project of national importance aimed at monitoring and reducing emissionsHarvest corporate greenhouse gas.

The objective of the work is that of measuring the so-called carbon footprint, or the quantification of greenhouse gas emissions in company wine, with simultaneous identification of the areas greatest impact within the entire production process, and areas to be targeted more effectively through concrete actions and circumscribed, for the reduction of emissions themselves.

In a time when, also consumer choices are increasingly oriented to support environmentally friendly products and chains, It assumes greater importance the ability to provide clear information on practices and processes, so also the consumer with his choices can reward companies and territories involved in the search for a possible environmental sustainability. Being winemakers is an old commitment which today it involves strenuous opposition to the impoverishment of the territories, viable only thanks to the exploitation of natural inclinations, and achievable only in the presence of an essential economic and environmental sustainability of production processes. Conservation and development of the area are the starting point of a careful viticulture, able to exploit with intelligence, respect and foresight available resources, and to get closer to a concept of full sustainability.

I was thirsty, and then saw that I had to drive ... and we all know that drivers should not drink… a grape juice was perfect!  Henry, He explained that this soft drink is produced with 100% di frutta, no added sugar, Preservative free, without coloring and without heat pasteurization.

  • Henry I like the idea of ​​doing a grape juice?

L’idea mi è scattata durante un viaggio in bicicletta in Inghilterra. Avevo una grande sete, and drinking a juice I got a pleasure so intense and unexpected that I immediately thought of my raw material: l’uva. This was the seed, the initial idea, the blink! From that moment it was as if he had opened up a world that I could not ignore! Create the best possible grape drink has become a 'necessity'. It’ game research in that direction ... Bring that experience in the glass so pure and true that only the fresh fruit and natural can give.  The study and the work of the next three years they were then taken to the "of UVA".

  • What is the difference between non-alcoholic wine and grape juice?

It’ totally different from the interpretation of the grape wine, but equally representative and respectful of the generous qualities of this fruit of UVA, drink a simple and revolutionary… It is the fruit juice and nothing else. And 'because it does not undergo fermentation WITHOUT ALCOHOL, and therefore does not need to be alcohol-free as alcohol content of the wine is not UVA. And 'grapes pressed as it is, brought to full maturity by nature itself. The cold treatment that undergoes, fulcrum of its innovative production process, perfectly preserves intact the properties of the original fruit.

  • I appreciated your juices flavored. You want to tell how did you arrive at these combinations?

Merlot-Merlot-lemongrass-ginger and anise-licorice, I am the result of a further search of flavors and nutritional facts with chef David Garbin. Together we wanted to give our products in two different purity appeal, combining quality and digestive stimulant herbs and spices used they put available, to those already contained in grapes. They were born the two flavors that give a strong character of UVA, staff, and that appeal to adults as an aperitif or as a dessert.

 




I miei tour Vinosi… Aosta. “La Crotta di Vegneron”

The Crotta di Vegneron is a cooperative of growers located in the village of Chambave ad Aosta.

Born in 1980 was conceived and fondata da Yves Burgay original Chambave, born in 1925 and died in 2011. President of the wine cooperative which brought together the vignerons of the valley for many years, strong character and determined according to those who have had the honor of knowing.

His research led to the production of fine Moscato Passito di Chambave produced by Crotta defined as his masterpiece. Expert winemaker and historical memory of the viticulture of Chambave, is both an objective the D.O.C. regional designation of the area under vine, and that the institutions recognized.

La Crotta extends the thirty hectares of vineyards in ten surrounding municipalities. Its members are actively involved in running the. One of them guiding me during my visit, told me that the particular microclimate of this region determines low rainfall, resulting in parasitic attack very limited, and use the minimum of pesticide treatments. And this is not a trivial matter ...

After my visit, I could not help but taste a red wine of character and structure ... I like it! A Fumin, ancient vine native to the Valle d'Aosta late ripening. Very well!

Fumin




The ... "Doria Montalto"!

 I Doria di Montalto… non so, ma detto così mi sembra quasi di raccontare la storia di una famiglia medioevale… di castelli, di sfide e di duelli!

E qui scatta la molla… Si, perché dovete sapere che amo molto la storia, and in particular I love everything that has a lived experience to tell. When I see antiques in my wanderings it is as if I were magnetized, and if anyone is with me hear me say: "Wait a minute I have to look ..." Not for nothing at home I surround myself with old books, candelabra, I read, spade, sabers and knives. Then when I enter the historic houses the matter gets really serious. It is as if you were experiencing a dejà vu , as if I were going home ... I only know that one day when you come in, come on Doria Montalto that atmosphere enveloped me ...

You should know that the Doria winery started its business in 1800. Pietro Doria, telegraph operator during the Second World War and survived the extermination of the Acqui Division in Kefalonia, once he returned from captivity he gave new impetus to the business. They followed him until 1996, the sons Bruno and Adriano. After that the reins passed into the hands of Andrew and David,  led by their mother Giuseppina Sassella Doria.

I decided to arrange a meeting for a visit. I was late as usual ... Despite my best efforts I can never be on time! Along the way, the landscapes caught my attention in particular, enough to stop and get out of the car to fully enjoy the beauty.

As Luigi Veronelli said in an article in the Corriere del 2003: “It is a territory which must be discovered slowly, and not only for the wine vocation ... "

At the entrance, dear Daniele Manini met me, agronomist of the company, with whom I spent an entire afternoon talking. The thought still amuses me, because Mario Maffi well known winemaker in Oltrepò Pavese, he had announced that it would be a good fight between the two of us ... Yes, fight who talked the most! Well I called him at the end of the evening, I had won!

You must know that Daniele had started his career as a pilot in aeronautics. It was a vision problem that stopped him, and that forced him to question his life. It was then that he turned to the Faculty of Agriculture of Viterbo, which soon led him to start his happy collaboration with the Doria family. He is a great supporter of the recovery of historical vines and cellar techniques to be sought in the history and traditions of the territory. It is also defined as the following figure, to quote his own words,  "The branch cattle-uva-come",  the Cellar Master. And it is precisely this thought of his that led him to give continuity to the tradition of the Cantina Doria. With him the “historical” Barbera raised in Italian chestnut barrels was made.  And this experimentation of his has led a famous “French tonnellerie” to take an interest, enough to entrust to some teachers the evaluation of the results that will obtain.

I look at my hills and often sip their wine so as not to doubt my teachers ... I look at the Pavia hills each time, moved, that are my sweet horizon of vine leaves. The Po land undulates like an immense sea fringed in profiles familiar to me from childhood. The waves are intense green, and gradually they become light blue violets until they become confused, with the sky ...

Giovanni Luigi Brera, the Gioânn, born on 8 September 1919 and San Zenone Po (Pv)




My meeting with Prof. Manzoni, the winemaker from the famous crossroads

It was Cristina Garetto, protagonist of one of my stories,,it,to mention him and his famous crossroads ...,,it,I had to admit I did not know him,,it,but from the stories he gave me,,it,he intrigued me immediately,,it,Call it instinct,,it,but something attracted me to the knowledge of that man,,it,I knew that,,it,he had been buried in the cemetery of my Lorenzaga,,it,small fraction of Motta di Livenza,,it,my land of origin,,it,my only link with the past,,it,In that cemetery there is a part of my family now gone,,it,I'll be there too,,it,so I decided,,it, ad accennarmi di lui e dei suoi famosi incroci…

Dovetti ammettere di non conoscerlo, ma dai racconti che mi fece, m’incuriosì da subito.  Chiamatelo istinto, sensations, ma qualcosa mi attirava nella conoscenza di quell’uomo. Seppi che era stato seppellito nel cimitero della mia Lorenzaga, piccola frazione di Motta di Livenza, mia terra d’origine, mio unico legame col passato.

In quel cimitero c’è una parte della mia famiglia ormai scomparsa, lì ci sarò anch’io, così ho deciso. Sometimes I walk inside and look at the photos on the tombstones,,it,I look at the looks,,it,and who knows I tell myself ... there I fear nothing,,it,I am among the people I met,,it,That little cemetery between vineyards and cobs is always open,,it,This is a strange evening,,it,It is one am,,it,I'm here on my desk,,it,but I'm actually there with my mind and I'm walking on gravel ... I feel like I'm being beamed,,it,almost divided between two entities,,it,I'm looking at it while I'm writing,,it,They are there in front of the small family chapel ... ",,it, guardo gli sguardi, e chissà mi dico… lì non temo nulla, li sono tra persone che ho conosciuto. Quel piccolo cimitero tra vigneti e pannocchie è sempre aperto.

Questa è una serata strana, è l’una di notte, sono qui sul mio scrittoio, ma in realtà sono lì con la mente e sto passeggiando sulla ghiaia… Mi sento come teletrasportata, quasi divisa tra due entità. Mentre sto scrivendo lo sto guardando, sono lì davanti alla piccola cappella di famiglia…”

In the afternoon when I learned of him,,it,I decided to look for him,,it,But I wanted to have the only contact possible as I usually do before writing about people,,it,I am like that,,it,Contact with the voice,,it,with the skin,,it,with the place of belonging it is fundamental to me,,it,I went looking for myself,,it,but although I had traveled far and wide I did not find it,,it,It was late,,it,and for the moment I gave up,,it,After dinner I promised to go and drink coffee from Renzo and Anna,,it, decisi di cercarlo. Volevo però avere quell’unico contatto possibile come d’abitudine faccio prima di scrivere sulle persone. Io sono cosi. Il contatto con la voce, con la pelle, con il luogo di appartenenza mi è fondamentale.

Andai alla ricerca per conto mio, ma nonostante avessi girato in lungo e in largo non lo trovai. Si era fatto tardi, e per il momento rinunciai. Dopo cena avevo promesso di andare a bere il caffè da Renzo e Anna, Aunt's neighbors in the country and old friends,,it,Renzo knows me since I was a child,,it,I remember that every summer after months spent by the nuns being taken to the countryside was heaven,,it,In the morning he went to greet me and teased me,,it,Not to mention what he touched every year on the occasion of the fireworks of the village festival,,it,I was literally terrified,,it,but he regularly offered to distract me to avoid my sobs,,it,The paradox is that now I adore them,,it. Renzo mi conosce fin da bambina. Ricordo che ogni estate dopo i mesi passati dalle suore essere portata in campagna era il paradiso. Lui alla mattina passava a salutarmi e mi prendeva in giro. Per non parlare di cosa gli toccava ogni anno in occasione dei fuochi d’artificio della festa del paese. Ero letteralmente terrorizzata, ma lui regolarmente si offriva di distrarmi per evitare i miei singhiozzi. Il paradosso è che ora io li adoro, and as soon as I can I go to see them anywhere,,it,And again I chat and lose myself,,it,dov’ero,,en,I said that that evening in front of a cafe I told Renzo about my failed business,,it,Suddenly he told me,,it,You want us to come back together,,it,"It was past twenty-one,,it,sure I did not back down,,it,especially because the next day I would have to leave,,it,It was the last chance to look for him,,it,We started in the car,,it,we entered with a flashlight,,it,and we looked for him until he found it,,it,The loculus was low,,it,I knelt looking at him,,it.

E di nuovo che chiacchiero e mi perdo… dov’ero? Ah si! Dicevo che quella sera davanti a un caffè raccontai a Renzo della mia impresa fallita. Ad un tratto lui mi disse: “Vuoi che torniamo insieme?” Erano le ventuno passate. Friends, certo non mi tirai indietro, in particolar modo perché l’indomani sarei dovuta ripartire. Era l’ultima occasione per cercarlo.

Ci avviammo in auto, entrammo con una pila, e lo cercammo fino a trovarlo. Il loculo era basso. M’inginocchiai guardandolo. I saw a proud and proud look that did not surprise me,,it,I was determined to write about him,,it,and so I did,,it,Headmaster of the Enological School of Conegliano,,it,he became a famous researcher experimenting during the 1920s,,it,'30 crosses of vines in the properties of the Collalto family,,it,He documented his studies with about seventy publications,,it,A happy testimony of its crossroads we have the most interesting grape,,it,Luigi Manzoni used Pinot Bianco's pollen and fertilized Riesling's flowers thus obtaining the combination,,it. Ero decisa a scrivere di lui, e cosi feci.

Preside della Scuola Enologica di Conegliano, divenne famoso ricercatore sperimentando nel corso degli anni ‘20 – ’30 incroci di vitigni nelle proprietà della Famiglia Collalto. Documentò i suoi studi con una settantina di pubblicazioni. A felice testimonianza dei suoi incroci abbiamo il vitigno più interessante, l 'Crossing Manzoni Fotocamera Luigi Manzoni6.0.13.

Il Prof. Luigi Manzoni utilizzò del polline di Pinot Bianco e fecondò i fiori di Riesling ottenendo così la combinazione. The numbers indicated the row and the position of the plant,,it,The Enological School of Conegliano recently wanted to reorganize the congruous material of Manzoni present in its Department of Sciences,,it,they have managed to assemble a particular wooden optical bench camera from a brilliant project,,it,connected to a microscope,,it,it was used for scientific microphotographs,,it,These photographs obtained by Manzoni in the laboratory after days and days of meticulous attempts,,it.

La Scuola Enologica di Conegliano ha voluto recentemente riordinare il congruo materiale del Manzoni presente nel suo Reparto di Scienze. Do you think that sono riusciti ad assemblare da un suo geniale progetto una particolare fotocamera a banco ottico in legno, that, collegata ad un microscopio, veniva utilizzata per le microfotografie scientifiche. Queste fotografie ottenute dal Manzoni in laboratorio dopo giorni e giorni di meticolosi tentativi, they are still considered unsurpassed,,it,and this says a lot,,it,In reading his writings came the personality of a,,it,stubbornly determined man in achieving his goals,,it,I must admit that I am very happy with him in this,,it,Thanks to its rich documentation, I can now say I have known it,,it,because there are so many ways to get to know people,,it,I'm more and more convinced that writing your own ideas,,it,their own projects,,it,and their emotions,,it,give us a pinch of immortality,,it, e questo la dice lunga.

Nel leggere i suoi scritti scaturiva la personalità di un uomo caparbiamente determinato nel raggiungere i suoi obiettivi. Devo ammettere che in questo mi rispecchio molto in lui.

Grazie alla sua ricca documentazione ora posso dire di averlo conosciuto. Yes, perché ci sono tanti modi di conoscere le persone. Sono sempre più convinta che scrivere le proprie idee, i propri progetti, e le proprie emozioni, ci dia in dono un pizzico d’immortalità.




The story of Cristina ... a woman of the future with a look to the past

It is said that behind every great man, c’è una grande donna… Bè, I have been able to confirm.

It all began one afternoon in my country Lorenzaga Motta di Livenza, between the rustle of the corn shaken by the wind, the song of the hoopoe, and the cheerful voices of Erica and Giulio, my little cousins ​​who were rolling in the grass. After a look at the window in contemplation of such simple beauty of life, I started watching videos of some local producers.

Suddenly my attention was magnetized by a woman who told, Cristina Garetto. Something life d istinto, I always say, is my guide in life. Friends, that day my instincts pointed to the direction and set me in motion. After a brief search found the contacts and I arranged for a meeting with her. The next afternoon I was in Tezze di Piave, in the main office of the Cellar Cecchetto.

As usual I took a turn them around. Mi like to understand where people live and feel the atmosphere, is know as a bit '. After stopping my memories with some pictures, I headed entrance. Cristina was to welcome me, and our smiles made us know immediately.

Azienda Agricola Cecchetto

Azienda Agricola Cecchetto

During my visit, I told the meeting happy with Giorgio Cecchetto, her husband. Law, graduated at the higher Institute would never have thought to his fate in the wine world ... but life holds for us nice surprises, enough to grasp them.

He told me about the company and its wines. Proudly sponsoring the vine Raboso and its territories, Cantina Cecchetto is a founding member of the "Brotherhood of Raboso Piave".

All of a sudden he told me that make wine grapes obtained from well 35 hectares of vineyards in Lorenzaga Motta di Livenza.  I could not help that astounded eyes, explaining that I had just arrived from there.

Cellar Cecchetto Lorenzaga in Motta di Livenza

Cellar Cecchetto Lorenzaga in Motta di Livenza

Cristina became sommelier, decided to point to the tradition of trying to maintain a particular form of vine cultivation, "The Bellussera" (cultivation of four screws supported by a pole, that, once they reach the height, are inclined giving the vineyard a form radiating). Designed by F.lli Bellussi between the 1850 and the 1900, now disused because supplanted by forms with higher density of plants per hectare. Tradition hand in hand with innovation, because at the same time looking to the future with the experimental. In 2002, in fact, were planted the first 5000 screws from new clonal selections of Raboso.

You must know that I love the history and traditions. Lo so, lo so, I have already said in my other stories ... But this is to make you understand my enthusiasm, when suddenly he told me that the study of a text 1600, the refinement of Raboso happened in acacia wood land ..., gelso, chestnut and cherry! ("The Hundred and ten memories that make good factor out of Villa" by Giacomo Agostinetti, born in 1597 the Cimadolmo, a confining Paese)

Vineyards Cecchetto

Vineyards Cecchetto

For this effort she was awarded the "@ Terra Prix 2010 " by the Minister of Agriculture Giancarlo Galan as part of the celebration of the World Day of Rural Women. He told me of his research, and at one point he mentioned a certain Prof. Luigi Manzoni and his famous intersections. He said he was buried just Lorenzaga, in the cemetery where there is almost my whole family, where when the time comes I will be there. Oh my mama say, but that speeches should be and do ..., so to speak, I have many stories yet to be told!

Prof. Ma making al. Manzoni, you should know that what intrigued me and a lot of! So much so that on the same evening, I and my dear friend Renzo, with a stack to the hand, Lorenzaga wandered in the cemetery of his research to the past twenty-two! I've never said I'm quite stubborn and that if I put myself in the head is not something difficult to reach? Friends, is so! When you finally found it satisfied I stopped in front of his eyes fierce and proud.

It was then that I decided to tell him ... and I will, in my next story.

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