Therefore, Let me explain. A few nights ago I attended an evening in which the protagonist was a truffle, and truffle… the “tartufo bianco d’Alba”! 

Alberto Cirio, Councillor for Tourism and Tartuficoltura Piedmont Region, presented by Charles Vischi, organizer of the evening, has described the peculiarities and it told the story.

Truffles are not cultivable, are hypogeous fungi 'spontaneous' who commit their entire life cycle underground. They grow in very specific areas and under specific environmental conditions, living in symbiosis with the roots of some plants. Their birth is still shrouded in mystery. Pliny tells us that a bolt of Zeus, railing on earth, fertilized the point from which it originated.  Whatever the case, io continuo ad amarne i profumi e i delicati sapori che trasformano un semplice piatto in una prelibatezza degna degli dei… 😉 

The location of the event was that of 'Hotel Sheraton Milan Malpensa, while preparing the menu was coordinated by Enrico Fiorentini, chef executive del The Cannetto, in collaboration with colleagues Walter Ferretto of New farmhouse of Isola d'Asti, and Bruno Cingolani of The Castle Stables Govone. 

Before, after visiting the annual International Fair of the White Truffle, hor had the opportunity to deepen their knowledge of this fungus prized. From 12 October will begin a new edition, ben he 83esima che, with a rich array of events, I will celebrate the customs and traditions.

Having said, because you never stop learning, oggi vi parlerò di tartufi! 

Did you know that…

• There are many species, but the white truffle of Alba white, the Tuber powerful Pico, is the most valuable and larger. Do you think its value is around 250-300 the euro etto. Piedmont is the region in which it is no longer present, but can also be found in Lombardy, Pavese hills dell'Oltrepò, in Mantua, and albeit rarely, nell’Italia centrale. 

• The truffle contains about 80% water. It is rich in potassium, soccer, sodium, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper. Anyway, its value does not impact significantly on the contribution food. For fans is pure pleasure tasting. 

• At one time the white Alba truffle is retained in rice, now, for its conservation, is recommended to keep it wrapped in absorbent paper and in cool environment with temperature dai 3 to 6 degrees. A product warranty is sold in a numbered bag due to the origin of origin.

• In October 1990 was founded in Alba 'sNational Association of the city of truffles for the promotion and dissemination of the culture of this prized mushroom appreciated around the world. The quality is determined by expert judgment, men and women, specially trained. 

• To assess the quality of a truffle must be based on 'view, touch and smell '. A nose should be clean so that the gravel does not cover defects. At the touch must be compact but with a slight note of elasticity, while the nose the smell is perceptible only in the time of ripening. Its aromas are reminiscent of the garlic, mushroom and damp earth. 

• For the truffle hunter, in Piedmont is called with the dialect term trifolau o trifulé, good agreement with the trained dog digger is essential. The search of the precious fungus occurs from September to January, and preferably at night, this not to arouse too much attention while keeping secret the routes followed. From this it is easy to deduce that local knowledge is essential to the success of the mission. Italian legislation provides that the collection is free, whether it takes place in the woods than in the uncultivated land.

In addition to this valuable quality, there are many others with a more affordable price. Without removing the undisputed crown with white truffle, cyto eg prized truffles blacks, available until March, or between April and May the whitebait, or July the scorzoni. 

The white truffle cleans well, but does not peel. Unlike the black, should not be cooked. It is used as a condiment, cutting it into thin slices of lightly seasoned dishes. Come me, love the simple dishes and not too elaborate. Maybe that's why during the evening I especially enjoyed the risotto and eggs.

That is a bit too 'trifulé ?! 😉

Source: “Discovering the truffle” – Slow Food Editore

The recipe: “Caldidolci Vin Cot Quistello”

Vino cotto or cooked must? I would say both, but we are sure to know the difference? To do a bit 'of clarity I will help manufacturers.

Recently, after knowing better both products, I realized that not everyone knows the difference. Both excellent productions, however, different for both density that for the uses to which they are intended.

We start from the assumption that the first “mulled wine in the Piceno” is a real wine. It’ obtained by boiling the wort from the vines of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese, and is aged in oak barrels. E’ un the dessert vino, also used in desserts and to flavor meat. Above is an excellent remedy for curing cough and cold, and for people like me, Loves naturale medicine, this is already a good reason to talk about it.

It let me know Emanuela Tiberi of 'Farm David Tiberi Loro Piceno, with which, during an evening of food and wine circle “For All Tastes” coordinated by Charles Vischi, I got to chat.

Step prays al "Cooked wine Mantua" that, in the dialect, is called "cooking wine". I met thanks to my dear Paola of Cellar Quistello Mantua, receives the Twitter, and then in person to GourMarte, the food and wine event coordinated by Elio Ghisalberti.

La Cantina is a social Quistello cooperative formed in 1928 by a group of growers whose production is spread along the banks of the river Secchia. A land full of ancient traditions and gastronomic wine that I know well and I appreciate for my paternal origins valances.

Therefore, here to help me to clarify is their President, that defines me their mulled wine is not a wine, but a cooked grape must; is used as a seasoning for meat dishes, for salads, and also for sweets.

As established by rules of production of vin cooking, the raw material used is the Lambrusco grape must Grappello Ruberti, historic grape grown in the production area of ​​the PGI Quistello. It 'a product with a lot of concentration of grape sugar and alcohol-free.

In conclusion, back to the question I posed initially on: “vino cotto or cooked must?” I would say both. I will use the "Vin Cot Quistello" in the preparation of a dessert by themselves recommended, and the "Vino Cotto Piceno" as a dessert wine to accompany. 😉

"Caldidolci Vin Cot Quistello"

• Ingredients:

A liter of milk, 3 cups cornmeal thin, a pinch of salt, sugar to taste, a bit of butter, a handful of raisins, pine nuts to taste, a dash of Vin Cot Quistello.

• Preparation:

Prepare a poultice bringing milk to the boil while adding the flour of corn and a pinch of salt. Rimestare bene, until the flour is cooked. Add, stirring constantly, sugar, a bit of butter, a dash of VinCot and for the last few raisins and pine nuts.

With the polenta obtained form many biscuits oval and let them rest for a few hours. Pass them then baked, being careful not to dry them.

I "Caldidolci" as the word itself, should be served hot.

I present to you “lu vi cottu"In the local dialect means Marche “mulled wine”, a dessert wine.

We are Loro Piceno, in Macerata, common to the excellence of this ancient drink of the Marche. Mario Soldati work Vino al Vino of 1971, describing the sensations experienced when tasting a must cotto aged sixty years' writing:

“I find it a dessert wine, excellent. A nice brick red color to dark gold reflections, the strange taste, smoked and rough, corrects and prevents the viscous and sometimes cloying sweetness of many raisin and marsalati. There is something fascinating, deep and rustic mountain, in vino cotto ...”

It let me know dear Emanuela Tiberi dell’The. Agricola David Tiberi of Loro Piceno (MC).

Insieme a lei, but not only, I spent a pleasant evening of food and wine circle "For All Tastes"Dedicated to the region Marche. Coordinator of this tour, Charles Vischi, the setting of the “The Cannetto“, restaurant at the Sheraton Malpensa.

During dinner with Emanuela has spoken at length about this production typically Marche ancient history. Given my interest in the traditions has seen fit to send me a publication produced by the Chamber of Commerce of Macerata, I received a few days ago, and on which I quote:

"Tradition has it that, stored in oak barrels, it constituted an act to preserve the principle medicinal luster to the skin, treat rashes of children, restore the scent of breaths and, mainly, lift the human spirit from the monotony of every day. There was no farmer or sharecropper that once he had his own barrel of wine cooked. "

The mulled wine obtained by boiling the wort from the vines of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese, resting long aging in oak barrels. In addition to being used in desserts and to flavor meat, is an excellent remedy for treating coughs and colds.

That being said I will say: “But ... the boars are escaped?” Magari you rispondo!

Unfortunately they cause serious and continuing devastation of crops. For years, entire herds damage the crops of these lands, creating serious obstacles to local agriculture. Even the hunting has been able to reduce the presence of these wild animals. An analysis of Coldiretti has estimated the damage caused by the attacks to an amount of more than four million euro.

I reproduce below the outburst that just a few days ago Emanuela made me write me an e-mail:

“Cinzia, Today I went to prune my vineyard; I found out several screws huge hole that they dug for wild boars find the roots. The risk is the consequent death of plants. A real problem is that we live for years farmers in Macerata. Who takes care of duty, but the results are still very visible.”

It seems almost impossible that we can not resolve this situation. From curious what are researching on the web, I found an article in the 2010 of the Province of Sondrio that shows the strategy adopted by local farmers “sull’uso dell’smell the bear” to ward off the wild boars. Strategy to significantly deepen…