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Ritmi lenti, natura e cucina del territorio: gli ingredienti delle mie vacanze

Le ricette delle mie vacanze a Ponza: Fusilli alla maniera di Ponza, Acciughe marinate di Agostino (in copertina), Patate al finocchietto selvatico, Criscito: lievito madre naturale, Liquore al finocchietto selvatico.

Chi è appassionato di storia come me, tendenzialmente è attratto da tutto ciò che ne consegue. Amo visitare gli antiquari, browse through the antiques and vintage wear clothes. Against the other, da sempre, ho un’ammirazione particolare per le auto d’epoca sportive. Questo mio trasporto è rivolto anche ai libri e ai vecchi giornali. Poco time fan, a Roma, ho passato ore e ore su delle edizioni della Domenica del Corriere di oltre cinquant’anni fa, leggendo vecchie barzellette e gli articoli settimanali di enogastronomia di Luigi Veronelli. Non saprei esattamente spiegare il perché, ma tutto ciò che ha una storia mi affascina da sempre. La stessa cosa vale per le tradizioni, and, nella cucina, per le ricette della memoria legate al territorio.

Nelle mie ultime vacanze, a Ponza, passeggiando lungo il viale del porto, I hit an old cookbook open in plain sight at the entrance of a store. Incantata mi sono immersa nella lettura, sfogliando pagina dopo pagina… Il mio tempo libero, dovunque io mi trovi, ma in particolare quando viaggio, è scandito da elementi essenziali: ritmi lenti, natura e cucina del territorio. For this, below, riporterò alcune ricette tipiche del posto che ho letto, sperimentato e assaggiato. Oltre a condividerle, ne farò memoria e soprattutto buon uso.

Fusilli alla maniera di Ponza

In olio d’oliva soffriggere 600 grammi di peperoncini verdi mondati di gambi e semi. Add 600 grammi di pomodorini ciliegino interi con un pizzico di pepe nero, salare e, slow fire, portare a cottura fin quando i pomodorini si saranno sfaldati.
Condire i fusilli cotti al dente aggiungendo qualche fogliolina di basilico.

Acciughe marinate di Agostino, un pescatore di Ponza

Le acciughe o le alici (i pescatori le chiamano in un modo o nell’altro in base alla dimensione), sono ricche di calcio, iron, zinc, proteins, vitamina A e omega-3. Un pesce azzurro salutare ed economico che si può preparare i molti modi e che fa bene alle nostre ossa.

Pulire delle acciughe togliendo loro la testa e le interiora. Una volta sciacquate passarle in un tegame in cui, precedentemente, è stato fatto soffriggere uno spicchio d’aglio. Unire qualche pomodorino, un cucchiaio di aceto bianco, sale e origano. Far cuocere per cinque minuti a fuoco vivo e servire.

Patate al finocchietto selvatico

Tritare due cipolle e farle imbiondire in una padella con olio. Aggiungere quattro patate tagliate a tocchetti. Cuocere per dieci minuti in poca acqua bollente salata due mazzetti di finocchietto selvatico tritato grossolanamente, e unirlo con la sua acqua alle patate fin quasi a coprirle. Stufare a fuoco medio per circa venti minuti fino a quando il liquido si sarà asciugato quasi del tutto. Aggiustare di sale e peperoncino secondo i gusti.
Stufato più a lungo, finché il tutto diventa quasi una crema, ci si può condire la pasta.

Liquore al finocchietto selvaticoHeads of wild fennel

Raccogliere venti capolini freschi di finocchietto selvatico, lavarli e asciugarli. Then immerse them in alcohol in a glass container closure, and let soak for about twenty days. Una volta passato questo tempo filtrare e imbottigliare.

Criscito, lievito madre naturale

Impastare 200 grammi di farina, 90 grammi di acqua, 1 cucchiaio di olio e 1 cucchiaio di miele fino a formare un panetto. Quindi togliere 100 grammi dell’impatto ed aggiungervi 100 grammi di farina e 45 grammi di acqua a temperatura ambiente. Mescolare bene e, richiuso nel contenitore, lasciare riposare altri due giorni; ripetere l’operazione e riporlo in frigo. After 5 giorni ripetere nello stesso modo, e ancora per altre due volte, (in pratica per una durata di 15 days).

Quando si utilizza il lievito per fare il pane, brioche ecc., se ne prende una parte, mentre quella rimanente si integra per ugual peso con farina e acqua fino a… quando volete. Per panificare va utilizzato circa 1/3 di lievito rispetto alla farina da utilizzare, quantità che aumenta lievemente se si usano farine integrali, perché lievitano meno facilmente.

Ponza

Fonte ricette: “Ponza, cucina tradizionale e nuove tendenze” di Pina Di Meglio, Silverio Mazzella e Gennaro Mazzella




Fettuccine with saffron told by Enrico Fiorentini, lo chef, but especially the man

A few nights ago Enrico Fiorentini, chef del The restaurant Canneto at the Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport Hotel, I was just amazed! Let me explain why ...

When I see posted on social networks photographs of dishes without the slightest explanation I stizzisco somewhat. I like to understand what I see, and it is for this reason that the curiosity to know I do not hold back from asking information about the creations of raids cook on duty.

I am convinced that curiosity, Ben fasting, to be successful. It 'just ask without fear of not knowing. Many do not know, but alas they do not ask. You can make good food culture, wine, oils and vinegars as well, information with pills that do discover an underwater world of good things.

Good, This time the photographer-cook-creator to be pinched is Enrico Fiorentini.

I must confess, I saw that I myself almost did not believe it, that, after a couple of times ironically I pointed out the lack, to remedy he wanted to dedicate a plate, but not only, also he told me unless I ask him! 😉

Read below as he described it…

"Fettuccine with saffron drawn to the bronze fennel cream, prugne rosse and cacao "

Cynthia, the fettuccine with saffron bronze drawn, is a limited production dell’The. Agr. Vigna di More, very small company Marche, rather small, of which the holder is one of the simplest and most genuine people I've ever met.

The prugna rossa in this period is at its highest, with the balance between sour and sweet it is extremelyFettuccine bronze drawn sugosa. The fava di cacao enriches and gives the character of crispness and authority in respect of saffron, noble spice made from the flowers heart. The wild fennel finally, is the spontaneous grass for excellence this season, gives freshness, pleasant feeling of lightness and clean on the palate.

I have dedicated this dish because I think you have a lot of similarities with all these qualities that I just listed. An understated elegance and a sophisticated simplicity ... a combination of qualities that may seem conflicting, while on the other hand they are each the other compensation.

I must say I was pleasantly surprised that Henry. Think about that as soon as I met him I was a little obnoxious. I asked him to tell me a bit’ di's, but with a recommendation, to use the heart…

But who is Enrico Fiorentini? I mean the man, as well as the chef ...

Cynthia, I can start by telling you that I liked being in the kitchen because my, for work, They were often absent. Saturday was market day, you shopped, and then, back home, you cleaned vegetables. I liked the manual and the product processing in food, was fascinating, and it still is. I remember an old cookbook found in a drawer, “it Carnacina”. Initially seemed to me almost incomprehensible, then, on the occasion of get-togethers at the end of the school at the time of medium, I used venturing into some marble donut not properly leavened, to smile even thought ...

When it came time to choose the high school address I was tempted to orient myself to the hotel. I was not aware of the sacrifices of life to which I was getting into. From the first year I was involved from my era chef, Marco Olivieri, little extras in school events. At a distance I can tell you without a doubt that I was lucky, because it was a serious professional who carried out his work with passion. Here is the key word for those moving towards this career, the passion and the feeling, basic requirements for those who want to cook.

I do not hide that I put more effort at work and in school, of course when there was an opportunity; why I take this opportunity to thank my family who constantly has always supported me. After graduation I started with the first experiences, da Peck, from the Orti di Leonardo, by The Duke of Milan, until the Emerald Coast and Tuscany, then continue abroad, with the meeting of cultures and ethnic cuisines. A continuous metamorphosis of man and chef who was in me.

With foreign travel I have changed many things in my life, It took over the loneliness, melancholy, remoteness. It 'was then that I would concentrate more on the job, locking me in myself, in my world, surely with a different impact on being, becoming less social, less communicative, more closed, Bear and moody. When I came, after a long stay abroad, I found myself almost catapulted into an environment that no longer recognized. When came the time to leave was invading me anxiety and anguish ... A succession of strong emotions that was pouring in the kitchen, perhaps, because over time, It grows emotion ...

That was what I wanted to Henry, I wanted to come out and so the man was. Reading his words, besides to excite, I understand a little more what it means to be a chef today affirmed. A tough job that, seen from the outside, really it does not make the idea of ​​the difficulties. As I often say, to understand the people and their work, the only solution is to live them, directly on the "field".

Henry also loves music. This is what I wanted to give me, music reminiscent of the sea, summer, and walks on the sand barefoot ...

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