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The wine I love impetuous ..., strong, but especially wise. Indigenous Red Wines from Friuli.

Discussion of Roger Sixth

 

Once Josko Gravner mi have detto: “Cynthia, for me the wine is white”. I'm not a big as him, but I feel especially when the wine is red.

I like irruento like a wave that throws the rock ... strong as the handshakes of the peasants candid look you in the eyes ... wise come gli uomini e le donne che lavorano la terra e che amo ascoltare con le loro storie.

The wine that I love is this. A wine irruento, strong, wise ... a wine with its aromas makes me travel, and its flavor reminds me. A few nights ago I met, was rosso, and native Friulian.

The Friuli, a land that reminds me of his people, to my roots. People say many difficult. The truth is quite different, i friulani vanno capiti. They are a people tied to the land ... a nation that opens the heart, when he hears that the heart in front of you, batte sincero.

Lùnis

Timp furlan! Na scussa umida di sanbùc, the stela
nassuda nenfra il fun dai fogolàrs, na sera pluvisina – un pulvìn di fen.
tai ciavièj o in tal sen di un frut ch’al ven sudàt da la ciampagna ta la sera rovana.

Monday. Time Friulian! A moist rind of elder, a star was born in the midst of the smoke from the hearths, in a drizzly evening - a crock of hay in your hair or in the chest of a boy, that is sweaty from the countryside into the night on fire. Pier Paolo Pasolini da ‘The Best of Youth’

Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore

Gradisca d’Isonzo – Vigneti di Marco Felluga

Well, although this region is known for its large white, There are native to rediscover the authentic red and especially to taste. The occasion was propitious few nights ago to Restaurant 'The Faun' Cesano Maderno (MB). During serata, with the guidance of his friend Roger Sixth, I had the pleasure of tasting wines from some varieties saved from extinction.

Native Friulian wines RED

of Roger Sesto

The vines native Friulian red berry, mainly di parliamo Refosco, Schioppettino, Tazzelenghe, Pignolo, Terrano, considerable importance since cultivate that have managed to survive the fads. This is due to the fierce character of the people of Friuli that, firmly, have decided to maintain an authentic local heritage of grapes, in potential danger of extinction by preserving the quality and cultural importance.

A typical, however, closely linked to local Friulian: In fact, all the wines of the region, especially the reds, retain a certain rawness and aggression linked in some way to the same character of the inhabitants of the region and the local gastronomy, strong and spicy, borrowed from the Slavic cuisine. And maybe it was the kitchen – by the strong flavors – to promote the survival of these vines hard and gritty.

The red wines from Friuli are strong character, wild, frank, names levigati, Net, recognizable and, until about twenty years ago, also very rustic. Even the two varieties – so-called international – most widespread in the region, il Merlot ed il Cabernet Franc, than elsewhere, especially the first, have a flavor profile more graceful, do not talk in Bordeaux, but also in Tuscany and even in South Tyrol, here are particularly "green" and aggressive, an local which in this case really makes a difference.

Today, the basic matrix of these wines is still and always the same: its what the uve, the local (obviously) pure; however, at the level of the cellar, or by an oenological point of view, something has changed. The maceration is conducted with more caution, temperatures and times controlled and calibrated. The barrels were on average shrunken, Although it is not necessarily barrels, and their length of service has dropped considerably, coming more frequently restarted. It 'was in essence a "hard core" traditional, on which they are applied gradually increasingly innovative techniques. Sometimes - and more often – these developments are bringing to call into question since all the roots, inducing, for example to carry out operations - such as the vinification and aging in amphorae – constitute a real leap in the distant past oenology, that refer to the traditions of winemaking georgic-Caucasian.

  • It Schioppettino comes from the Eastern Hills. There are two versions about the origin of his name. The first makes the etymology derived from the noise caused by 'explosion of its berries are crushed when. The second refers to the bottles that broke out in the cellar when, during spring, in some of them resumed fermentation. Either way is characterized by a coloration not very charge, certainly less than that of the Refosco, to have hints of red fruit in prevalence, topped with a spicy pepper spice. The taste is characterized by a certain acidity, which helps to highlight the tannins.
  • The Refosco (it is a "grape-population", of which the most interesting representative is constituted by what Peduncolo Red), This largely on the eastern hills and a little in the Grave, reaching up to the province of Treviso, is characterized by a spicy hot, added to a known wild plant and hints of red fruits and concentrates, the color is intense, and the taste is characterized by a relatively low acidity, which makes the tannins less angular.
  • The Tazzelenghe dwelling mainly on the Eastern Hills, has affinities with the Refosco, but in addition is characterized by rather strong and complex animal notes, and especially by a very firm tannins and acidity "sharp", hence the origin of the name. To tame the vehemence of tannin is practically mandatory aging in an appropriate timber and / or a slight drying on the vine or in the loft.
  • The Pignolo, perhaps a distant relative of the Valtellina Pignola, has a soft spiciness, rather moderate and elegant, enriched with an aromatic and almost balsamic. It’ one of the most noble grape varieties of Friuli.
  • The Terrano, also called the Carso Terrano or Refosco d'Istria or the Carso and Istria, is the grape that demands long pruning, denotes vigor and abundant and constant. The leaf, Medium size, appears roundish, pentagonal, e trilobata; the cluster, large, long 20 cm., typically has the shape of a pyramid with a wide base, winged, moderately compact, presents the berries slightly elliptical, of medium size with skin deep blue very waxy, a powder’ thin, consistent; the pulp is dissolved simple flavor, sweet and a little’ acidula. Gives rise to a wine of intense ruby ​​red color with purplish-strong fragrance and light vinous nose, the palate is dry, bodied, average alcohol, acidulo, tannico, overall quite pleasant. It is cultivated exclusively in karst areas of Gorizia and Trieste.

As far as longevity is generally wanting wines that are also ready soon, but with the ability to withstand a few years of bottle, about a dozen.

Fotografia e Vigneti di Marco Felluga – Gradisca d’Isonzo




My encounter between the jars with Josko Gravner

You know those summer afternoons, when the heat causes us to idleness making us lose the lightness of chatter ...?  Well, just so happened that my cousin told me Hilary: "Been Josko Gravner the vintner who makes wine in amphorae ?". Well, I jumped up and said: "In the jars ...?!”.  I am not able to give many explanations, and then, piqued by curiosity, I started right away with my research. I began to read him fascinated, and decided that I should know…

I watched some videos in which he told Josko his philosophy of the earth ...  poetry to my ears! Call me too romantic, but the feeling that I was listening for balance and wisdom.

And 'that is rooted in the land the answer to my research, this is my therapy, this will be my rebirth,  why is the love for it that I find the deeper meanings.

I sent an email to Josko Gravner to arrange a meeting. From his response I realized that the moment was not propitious. It was time to harvest, and the needs of the vineyard absorbed. A little disappointed I resigned myself to postpone the meeting, but from person stubborn which are not demorsi. Soon the time came!

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The morning of departure loaded the luggage,  I pointed in the direction of the navigator Oslavia.  I was particularly excited;  while I was driving along the road I thought about how the meeting would be held. Then, I thought to myself that the only way to establish sincere relationships with people is to be yourself, and so did.

Finally arrived at the destination I was pleasantly surprised by the simplicity of the house of Josko.

It was his smile to greet me, pleasant family atmosphere and that put me at my ease. Those who know me well also experienced my shyness that I try to hide chatting.

Josko Gravner 1

That afternoon with us was the sweet wife Mary Josko, and Sabrina and Debora, two of their friends in Viareggio. We started our guided tour and a tasting between each other and the stories about his life.  He told us how he started his adventure grower, making frequent references to the loss of his father when he was just twenty-five years. I knew well what I was saying, having had the same experience at the same age. The teachings of the fathers, however, accompany us throughout life, like an echo that continues to spread in the head.

Josko told us of his trip to Georgia, the search for a wine without chemistry that follows the cycle of nature: a simple and clean wine as in times past. From Georgia he brought their bottles and finally abandoned the use of steel. He told:  "The wine in amphorae lives, while in the steel not breathe ... The amphora is like a womb in which the wine is then matured in large barrels, that unlike the small not affect too much ... "

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He told us his son Miha died prematurely, and the willingness of the latter to move towards Ribolla, will that faithfully respects Josko. Ci parlò di Aljosa, his trusty assistant and now an integral part of the family. How much passion and love put these in conducting the work in the vineyard and in the cellar. The time passed very quickly with my questions that often surprised by the naivety that probably was not used. Because I want to understand ... because this is my search.

In our ramble, Bruno the dog Josko, we kept him company following us from room to room. Suddenly he was attracted by something, and struck with a sudden spring Sabrina, having in his hands a cup of Ribolla I poured it completely on. They were all visibly embarrassed at the sight of my shirt and my jacket wet skin. They were moments so excited that I immediately wanted to play down saying: “But we think, I will have the honor of having the jacket to Gravner!". Believe me ... after a very short time the spots are dried to perfection without leaving any halo that wine ..., it was just clean!

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In our tour of tastings degustai all vintages. I was a bit 'hesitant because I'm used to drinking very little because of a headache due to excess use of sulfur dioxide in wine. That day nothing happened,  my head was perfectly lucid. I said shocked: “At this point it is natural to ask ... but what we are accustomed to drinking wines?! But how much chemical is introduced?!”.

They spent three hours without my realizing it; it was time to say goodbye, except that Mary insisted that I stay for dinner. Sitting side by Josko chatted throughout the evening going from one topic to another. I will never forget the emotions of the day. I desired to tell them relive every time I reread.

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I recently read Josko define "a hermit". I could not help but smile, Perche Josko, is simply a winemaker in the land of Oslavia, friendly and jovial, who welcomed me as if I were a family member. Italian winegrower known worldwide for his research and for its simplicity,  a great man who I got to know and appreciate, who advised me, and I will never forget!

"In many mock me for my being, ma cosa volete sono vecchio per cambiare e alla fine sono felice di essere cosi. Non avrò denari da lasciare ma una Terra sana dove il sudore di mio padre Jozef e mio zio Franc non è stato versato invano. And 'these two men that I thought in these years of great changes, and goes to them my first and last thought of my day. And finally, I guess the proud and smiling. "Josko Gravner

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