The market, so beautiful so much still little known. I am referring above all to the hinterland, and, for fans like me, to its ancient wine routes. Paths dotted with hills and historic villages that make the eyes sparkle with the beauty of the landscapes. Among the many, on my last excursion, I wanted to choose one that has always been linked to the cultivation of the vine. Un comune parzialmente montano il cui nome fa riferimento al culto della dea Cupra, an Italic divinity protector of the fertility of the earth. I refer to Cupramontana, historic village located in 505 metri s.l.m. in the heart of the Marche, che dal 1939 it has earned the title of capital of Verdicchio, for the enhancement it has been able to give to this vine.

I remember years ago, to one of my introductory wine courses, trovai singolare la somiglianza genetica che lega il Verdicchio ad un vitigno veneto. I refer to Trebbiano di Soave, grown in the province of Verona and Vicenza, but not only. Among the most accredited hypotheses it seems that this ancient 'kinship' is due to a migration of Veronese farmers that in the fifteenth century, to escape the plague, they moved to Ancona. A forced and documented exodus, which induced the Venetian population to bring with them the rooted cuttings of their vines. Obviously, over the centuries this vine has been able to adapt well to the microclimatic conditions and the geomorphological characteristics of the soil., expressing themselves at their best and assuming a real organoleptic identity, thanks to which it can be considered a native vine. Il Verdicchio – il cui nome ha origine dalle persistenti sfumature verdi dell’acino – is a versatile grape that, if left to age, surprising for its complexity and elegance. Two denominations: Verdicchio of the Castles of Jesi, of character and structure with important alcoholic traits, and Verdicchio di Matelica, more delicate and with a modest alcohol content.

Mario Soldati in the autumn of 1970, during his second journey to discover real wines, raccontò in “Vino al Vino” il suo incontro con il Verdicchio, or better, with Verdicchio from the Castellucci di Montecarotto winery. An experience full of intense aromas, fresh, pungent. Greenish straw yellow colors. Flavors first sweetened, then sour, con un’aromaticità che a Soldati riportò alla mente alcuni Riesling, Chablis, Gewürztraminer and Pinot grigi: “The class is the same, but the composition of the aromas is different, particular to verdicchio, or at least this Verdicchio, and, in short, unique."  Asides aside, the territory of Cupramontana is inextricably linked to viticulture and the production of Verdicchio. Walking through the old town, with a typical medieval aspect, I found the shops specializing in the sale of material for oenology very interesting. The sight of their shop windows speaks volumes about the interests of the people of these lands.    

Continuing with my walk all of a sudden my gaze turned to an imposing structure. An architectural gem dating back to the early 1700s that I had every intention of visiting. Too bad it was closed! Despite this, as often happens in small towns, if you kindly ask… you get! So it was again this time thanks to the councilor for culture of the municipality of Cupramontana, the kind Maddalena Mennechella, who happened to be on the spot to do some chores. His kind and friendly hospitality allowed me to visit the ME – Cave museum, a museum itinerary located in the magnificent caves of Convent of Santa Caterina. A labyrinth of tunnels dug into the sandstone protected by the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities, in which the symbolic product of this land is told through display panels and educational materials: the Verdicchio. Inside there is also the Museum of the label, in which numerous labels selected by the 'golden label' award are exhibited.

The last stop on my excursion to Cupramontana was at the farm Ca’Liptra. But I will tell you more about this visit in my next paper. One, perché quel giorno le forti folate di vento mi hanno fatto pensare alla sua importante influenza in viticoltura. Prima di scriverne però voglio documentarmi meglio. 😉

MIG Musei in Grotta Cupramontana (AN) – www.museiingrotta.it

Photo credit Verdicchio: Turismo Cupramontana www.turismo-cupramontana.com

Distilleria Varnelli,,en,Only the love for their land and,,it,closeness of the people of their country by courage and new vitality to continue,,it,An affirmation that I share, and that brings me to a land to which they are bound for different reasons,,it,In particular, the dry anise and bitter tied to the traditions of the mountain territory from which it takes its name,,it,These are the issues that I dealt with Simonetta Varnelli,,it,in addition to the management of the company,,it, antica casa liquoristica marchigiana.

Quest’anno la mia estate è iniziata viaggiando tra Abruzzo e Marche. Two regions affected by the earthquake in the heart that are slowly trying to restore the right balance,,it,This is the answer I was given several times by locals,,it,In days gone by in this region,,it,I wanted to spend some of my time to an ancient liqueur house that I appreciate the craftsmanship of its productions,,it,still evident signs that require bureaucratic quickness for the safety,,it,but also,,it,for those who live the local manufacturers,,it. Non è facile far vincere le paure alle persone quando è la natura a decidere. Solo l’amore per il proprio territorio e la vicinanza della gente da coraggio e nuova vitalità per continuare. For this, dopo aver passato del tempo in Abruzzo, mi sono fermata nelle Marche. Una presenza, or better, un’esigenza che sentivo di dover soddisfare.

“Nelle Marche si vive bene”

It’ questa la risposta che mi è stata data più volte dalla gente del posto. An affirmation that I share, and that brings me to a land to which they are linked to the beauty of the coasts and inland,,it,Sole,,en,green hills,,it,and vast expanses of sunflowers,,it,In days gone by in this region I wanted to spend some of my time to an ancient liqueur house that always appreciate the craftsmanship of its productions,,it,A company history that,,it,as many other area,,it,about a year ago he suffered the damage caused by earthquakes,,it,still evident signs that require,,it. Sole, high, verdi colline e immense distese di girasoli. But not only…

Nei giorni passati in questa regione, ho voluto dedicare una parte del mio tempo ad un’antica casa liquoristica che apprezzo per l’artigianalità delle sue produzioni. Mi riferisco alla Distilleria Varnelli di Muccia, in provincia di Macerata. Un’azienda storica che, come molte altre della zona, circa un anno fa ha subito alcuni danni conseguenti alle scosse di terremoto. Segni ancora evidenti che richiedono sveltezza burocratica per la messa in sicurezza, ma anche e soprattutto, per chi vive le realtà produttive locali, coraggio, tenacity and valorisation,,it,A woman who welcomed me with kindness and I loved the character and simplicity,,it,Together the sisters family manages a completely feminine,,it,During our conversation I found Simonetta in the resolution which I think can be useful for the protection of the territory,,it,they never prevailed on the possibility of undertaking an alternative route. In addition to these personal lifestyle choices,,it. Sono questi i temi che ho trattato con Simonetta Varnelli. Una donna che mi ha accolto con gentilezza e che ho apprezzato per il carattere e per la semplicità. Insieme alle sorelle gestisce un’azienda familiare tutta al femminile. Una distilleria – la più antica delle Marche – fondata nel 1868 da Girolamo Varnelli a Cupi di Visso (MC), che da ben quattro generazioni si contraddistingue per la continuità fedele di una tradizione.

During our chat, ho riscontrato in Simonetta quella risolutezza che ritengo possa essere utile per la tutela del territorio. Sensazioni che mi hanno indotto ad invitarla a proporsi per un ruolo istituzionale. In realtà, dalla sua risposta, I realized that the management of the company and the attention and enjoyment of family responsibilities,,it,We may never have prevailed on the possibility of undertaking an alternative route. In addition to these personal lifestyle choices,,it,It also discussed how - in terms of construction,,it,Speeches that continued following a path in the operational heart of the distillery,,it,Among aromas of herbs,,it,roots and honey Monti Sibillini,,it,Simonetta has described to me the techniques of production that,,it, they never prevailed on the possibility of undertaking an alternative route. In addition to these personal lifestyle choices, It also discussed how - in terms of construction – si potrebbe fare e soprattutto migliorare, to overcome future situations that could again disrupt a country from the seismic risks as our,,it,Speeches that we have continued to deal with the operational heart of the historic distillery,,it,A knowledge that will certainly give you a satisfaction and a greater pleasure to my taste,,it,A special meeting of the Marche in the oldest distillery,,it. Issues to be addressed seriously to avoid continuing to "cure" rather than prevent,it.

Passeggiando nel cuore operativo della distilleria storica tra profumi di erbe officinali, radici e grandi quantità di miele dei Monti Sibillini,  Simonetta mi ha descritto le tecniche di produzione che nel rispetto della tradizione e della materia prima, seguono con cura e precisione scrupolosa i metodi e le antiche ricette originali di un tempo.

Una visita in una casa liquoristica storica che desideravo fare da tempo, che mi ha permesso di vivere con curiosità ed emozione un’esperienza che darà certamente ai miei assaggi – consapevoli e responsabili – una soddisfazione ed un piacere diverso. Merito della storia, della tradizione e della grande abilità degli artigiani italiani del gusto.

Distilleria Varnelli,,en,Only the love for their land and,,it,closeness of the people of their country by courage and new vitality to continue,,it,An affirmation that I share, and that brings me to a land to which they are bound for different reasons,,it,In particular, the dry anise and bitter tied to the traditions of the mountain territory from which it takes its name,,it,These are the issues that I dealt with Simonetta Varnelli,,it,in addition to the management of the company,,it – www.varnelli.it

Via Girolamo Varnelli, 10 Muccia (MC)

Adoro questo tratto della costa Adriatica per i suoi piccoli borghi, per le grandi pareti rocciose a strapiombo sul mare, e per i bei sentieri del Monte Conero… un vero paradiso.

I colori predominanti qui sono il bianco delle rocce, the blue of the sea, e il verde della sua lussureggiante vegetazione.

Una riviera da scoprire che non mi ha mai deluso. Sono tante le località che meritano di essere visitate, ma la mia preferita è Sirolo, la perla dell’Adriatico.

Sarà per la sua pace, per il suo mare, o per le sue rocce… resta il fatto che dalla prima volta che l’ho vista me ne sono innamorata.

Secondo una leggenda il suo nome trae origine dal condottiero Sirio, che nel IV sec. conferì queste terre ai suoi fedeli. Un borgo medievale delle Marche ricco di storia e di siti archeologici.

Sirolo, tra collina e mare, una meta molto apprezzata sia dai turisti italiani che da quelli stranieri. Lungo la costa si può ammirare la grotta Urbani e i faraglioni della spiaggia delle due sorelle.

Un tratto di mare per chi ama gli scogli, le pareti rocciose, il mare cristallino, e i percorsi nella natura.

I present to you “lu vi cottu"In the local dialect means Marche “mulled wine”, a dessert wine.

We are Loro Piceno, in Macerata, common to the excellence of this ancient drink of the Marche. Mario Soldati work Vino al Vino of 1971, describing the sensations experienced when tasting a must cotto aged sixty years' writing:

“I find it a dessert wine, excellent. A nice brick red color to dark gold reflections, the strange taste, smoked and rough, corrects and prevents the viscous and sometimes cloying sweetness of many raisin and marsalati. There is something fascinating, deep and rustic mountain, in vino cotto ...”

It let me know dear Emanuela Tiberi dell’The. Agricola David Tiberi of Loro Piceno (MC).

Insieme a lei, but not only, I spent a pleasant evening of food and wine circle "For All Tastes"Dedicated to the region Marche. Coordinator of this tour, Charles Vischi, the setting of the “The Cannetto“, restaurant at the Sheraton Malpensa.

During dinner with Emanuela has spoken at length about this production typically Marche ancient history. Given my interest in the traditions has seen fit to send me a publication produced by the Chamber of Commerce of Macerata, I received a few days ago, and on which I quote:

"Tradition has it that, stored in oak barrels, it constituted an act to preserve the principle medicinal luster to the skin, treat rashes of children, restore the scent of breaths and, mainly, lift the human spirit from the monotony of every day. There was no farmer or sharecropper that once he had his own barrel of wine cooked. "

The mulled wine obtained by boiling the wort from the vines of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese, resting long aging in oak barrels. In addition to being used in desserts and to flavor meat, is an excellent remedy for treating coughs and colds.

That being said I will say: “But ... the boars are escaped?” Magari you rispondo!

Unfortunately they cause serious and continuing devastation of crops. For years, entire herds damage the crops of these lands, creating serious obstacles to local agriculture. Even the hunting has been able to reduce the presence of these wild animals. An analysis of Coldiretti has estimated the damage caused by the attacks to an amount of more than four million euro.

I reproduce below the outburst that just a few days ago Emanuela made me write me an e-mail:

“Cinzia, Today I went to prune my vineyard; I found out several screws huge hole that they dug for wild boars find the roots. The risk is the consequent death of plants. A real problem is that we live for years farmers in Macerata. Who takes care of duty, but the results are still very visible.”

It seems almost impossible that we can not resolve this situation. From curious what are researching on the web, I found an article in the 2010 of the Province of Sondrio that shows the strategy adopted by local farmers “sull’uso dell’smell the bear” to ward off the wild boars. Strategy to significantly deepen…