Today I want to give space to vent to a friend grower that is echoed in many other voices. Bureaucracy, bureaucracy and red tape still! That 's what I hear constantly from the producers. We need to make administrative or farmers tell me… mah, I say!

I wonder if any of these bureaucrats enforcers of so much paper to fill you realize what it means to produce? Of how much effort, time, and commitment involves working the land? But not only because leisure must occupy it for promotion at trade shows and events to get to know, it is essential to know their products.  I remember years ago reading that a company in Japan has imposed its executives to have direct experience in production among the workers ... it would also be here with us, and I would say in many areas!

I support always with great conviction that in order to judge the work of others, to understand the difficulties, problems and solutions, we simply do! Instead of occupying the comfortable offices, outputs, and spoken with the producers!  You must live the reality! You have to listen to them! You are our representatives, and now and then to move, to pull on the fate of this Italy wound and brought to its knees! The earth is what we are left, those who work it is our only hope to save us from this crisis! Let us help you work!

Forgive my outburst, but the Italian, the real ones, those who struggle do in every way, even so, a cry for help! And that's why I now give the floor to one of them… friend Marco Bernava.

• Framework, what would you ask the institutions at both national and European level in the immediate to help manufacturers?

“Let us make and sell!"Why do wine is an art ... it's poetry and technical at the same time, and artists have to have space to do well, They must have freedom of movement.

We are stuck in a system that does not work Cinzia, and not only in winemaking but I dare say all over the agrarian sector. Concentrating on the development of viticulture and wine, I believe that as in the rest of the primary sector is one of the major faults of the EU and by the policies of the member countries: "Guidelines that result in regulations and controls that bluntly define as useless as harmful, a scheme of the implant / explant inconsistent, a customs officer that should not exist and instead binds all negotiations intra-, heavy labeling rules, qualification systems of the products a bit 'random … and much more I could add ... "

My experience as a technician and now as a producer makes me realize more and more growers with their crying for low prices, for their impotence on the market because the supply frazionatissima (and without collective voice, make no mistake), in front of giants that dictate purchase prices of the grapes, taking into account only their logic of profit (the result of an incorrect system globally), not least considering the cost of production of the wine grower.

I understand more and more what in the past has been distorted and spoiled the sector. It hurts to think about how wine is perceived by certain sectors of society, due to wrong policy choices in substance. It makes me sad to see how you have to make do with the administration of certain paperwork taking over the features of a voodoo ritual rather than an administrative. My experience leads me to conclude that I want to live well as a technical part of agriculture fascinating and dynamic and that I will live as a struggling producer of commercial and himself, in the hope (o illusione) that the system simplifies.

I'm not saying that it should be an anarchist sector, but even that I should spend half of my time working for the public administration. What is certain is that the industry needs to have a proper and coherent legislative system constraints that which is harmful to health (it is a food product) and what is actual fraud, but leaving that producers can create originality and that may offer and sell with agility.

I let go of only two examples in Europe: the labeling and the qualification system of the wines on the one hand, and other authorized oenological practices. There are paradoxes of how you should NOT operate at the supra-national sector. Basically the market because we are confronted with the "new world" wine, where the rules are more lax and where they can see that the bottom of the equivalent of every wall that the EU builds us and that we have to jump does nothing but increase the cost of production, therefore decrease the competitiveness on international markets, and to be cherished wines sometimes even on the domestic market. Results: on the one hand and on the other we import cheap wines limit the consumption of domestic product, essentially confusing the consumer and away from the gaudire a product that is part of our culture for centuries immemorial.

Then do not forget that the viticulture and enology are the basis for the management of many areas of our countries: landscape management, environmental management, socio-economic fabric (think in addition to producers also all'indotto enoturistico). This social role should be further rewarded and not beaten by both Community and national policies. Should be allowed to work and foster the development of the wine industry and what gravitates around him, especially in growing areas, where every economic alternative would be either a crash or an aberration and a destruction of the territory. I am referring specifically to the topic wind farm in Spain and as far as I know in Italy: interests of multinational painted with the colors of ecology and sustainability, sold to the territory as helpless as is agriculture, destroying their vocation and turning it into a pseudo-industrial landscape and mass-raped by speculation (in the country had not yet arrived).

But this is a 'different story Cinzia: if you want we'll talk! 

Winemaker means making wine, but in Italy this term is understood as the professional consultant oenologist. They do not come to terms, unless the same is not the face… I mean the wine! In many cases it happens, in some no! Quindi forse una ridimensionata a questo termine andrebbe data.

In a recent article about Sharp's Michelangelo ",,it,Rather I say more,,it,I enclose a passage from an article a few years ago I read the Blog of Luciano Pignataro,,it,but I do interpreting the literal and basic meaning of "who makes the wine",,it,I add with conviction that should integrate and complement to obtain original wines,,it,I start by 'idea,,it,the wine is a reflection of a "winery" system as a whole,,it,The property,,it,must be the product ambassador,,it,the image,,it,and heart,,it,The party wine,,it,and here enters the agronomist with the winemakers,,it,I see it as the art of shaping a brilliant result,,it,The oenology,,it,and here winemaker and cellar master must be one,,itthe flattening of the quality of the wines”, quote his own words, mah, say that… Perhaps, if you personally producessi wine, I wish I looked like, rather, without perhaps! Accommadations choosing a wine consultant on its very specific qualities, experiences, and thought. Anzi dico di più, I wish it was actively “longer present” in making wine, that is present in the series of operations that are not limited to counseling.

Allego un passaggio di un articolo di qualche anno fa letto sul Blog di Luciano Pignataro. I found it very interesting and current: “What do you believe that a wine consultant here in New Zealand? Virtually all: mountainous le pompously, pulisce la diraspatrice, washing the floor, enters the vat for Svinaře, download marc, in short, a winemaker in the true sense of the word! A few days later I read an article in a magazine of NZ wine that falls "bean" on the subject. Talk to Italy and tells how in recent years the cellars of great renown are the most famous thanks to the consultant winemaker rather than the wine and its characteristics ...”

Friends, At this point I would just ask the question to those who call themselves winemaker interpreting the literal meaning and basic who makes wine. The person in question is my dear friend Marco Bernava.

• Framework, Winemaker means making wine ... or not?

Cynthia is a pleasure and an honor to export my thoughts.

Io in primis mi definisco winemaker, ma lo faccio interpretandone il significato letterale e basico di “chi fa il vino”. In Italia (and not only), I think there are well-defined shapes and professionally especially in terms of training. Aggiungo con convinzione che dovrebbero integrarsi e complementarsi per ottenere vini originali. Parto dall’ idea che il vino è lo specchio di un sistema “azienda vitivinicola” nel suo complesso:

• La proprietà deve essere l’ambasciatore del prodotto, l’immagine, ed il cuore.
• La parte viticola, e qui entra in scena l’agronomo insieme ai vignaioli, la vedo come l’arte di plasmare un frutto geniale.
• La parte enologica, e qui enologo e cantiniere devono essere un tutt’uno, I see it as the personal computing power of the vineyard,,it,Overall then,,it,in which a cellar produces,,it,I would define as the sum of the elements that create an original product and which must be managed in part and in part simply read and interpreted,,it,At other times it seems to me that there is a willingness on the part of someone to do ",,it,the first woman,,it,"And this gets to break the positive mechanisms and leads to not broadcast the originality of the final product,,it,I think everyone involved in the production process should make her a co-author of a wine with a final goal common to all,,it,racing feel,,it,The consultant in many business realities is essential,,it,whether it agronomist or winemaker,,it.
• Nel complesso poi the local in cui una cantina produce, lo definirei come la somma degli elementi che creano un prodotto originale e che devono essere in parte gestiti ed in parte semplicemente letti ed interpretati.

A volte invece mi sembra che ci sia la volontà da parte di qualcuno di fare “la prima donna” e questo arriva a rompere i meccanismi positivi e porta a non trasmettere l’originalità del prodotto finale.

A mio avviso ogni persona coinvolta nel processo produttivo dovrebbe apportare il suo essere co-autore di un vino con un fine ultimo comune a tutti: “regalare sensazioni”. Il consulente in moltissime realtà aziendali è essenziale, sia esso agronomo o enologo, but in my opinion should be the interpreter,,it,in which it falls to work,,it,and must not ",,it,put the signature and just,,it,His role makes him partaker of the production phase,,it,but his involvement with the,,it,and the single reality,,it,It varies according to his style and his professional ethics,,it,There are situations in which the consultant should be limited to giving protocols,,it,do or interpret analysis,,it,and make technical decisions,,it,There are other situations where it might,,it,and in my opinion should,,it,passionately involved with it enters the system part,,it,A bottle is like a song,,it,"The symphony can create as tools or as a set of solos,,it,the result will obviously be different,,it,Michele Tagliente,,it,It's not often we say,,it local in cui si cala a lavorare, e non deve “mettere la firma e basta”.

Il suo ruolo lo fa partecipe della fase produttiva, ma il suo coinvolgimento con il local e la singola realtà, varia a seconda del suo stile e della sua etica professionale. Ci sono realtà in cui il consulente deve limitarsi a dare protocolli, fare o interpretare analisi, e prendere decisioni tecniche; ci sono altre realtà in cui potrebbe (e a mio avviso dovrebbe), coinvolgersi passionalmente con il sistema di cui entra a far parte.

Una bottiglia è come una canzone: “La puoi creare come sinfonia di strumenti o come insieme di assoli… il risultato sarà ovviamente diverso”.

Marco Bernava

Giacomo Leopardi, My favorite poet wrote: “I am convinced that even at the last moment of our lives each of us can change one's destiny…” I firmly believe. To do so, the only solution is to let go, and experience all that you can live ...

There fraintendetemi, I do not do crazy things, but if I find myself in front of I take the opportunity to fly. I learned how to do the last two years life, and I assure you it is really worth. Alike, when he seeks a person to know, that is presented to me for its uniqueness, I do not ever pull back. It 'a journey into the souls, often very intimate and exciting. The result is a personal enrichment of knowledge and experience, which offers a real moment of life… So one day a friend told me about Mark Bernava, Italian winemaker in the land of Spain.

I met him first on the phone, and then subsequently for months and months with a mail exchange. Sometimes with real disappointments, sometimes with positions taken by ... a true and sincere friendship that has grown over time, and that led me to get attached more and more to the person who was learning to know, and to appreciate. We had promised to meet us at the earliest opportunity of. Well a few weeks ago, the same friend who put me in touch with him, with an apology prompted me to go outside the building where I was for a small thing to solve. You have no idea of ​​my expression when I saw him at the door. I hugged him strong, happy and excited as long it did not happen…

Vigneti Bernavi’

Vi presento Marco Bernava, il mio caro Marco, a man of the earth, and wine ...

• Framework, the first time that I spoke to you on the phone I asked you to tell me a little 'tea. Your words to me were enough to understand. Imagine going back in time, was the 19 December 2011. "Hello Marco Cinzia, I have spoken to you, tell me ...?”

"It 's a good question! - I said to myself - how can I sum up all my concerns in a phone call without appearing a fool?”. And now I find myself with the same dilemma, but the title of our talk nicely sums up some of the central aspects of my "tell". I 35 age, I was born in Milan and graduated in Agricultural Science and Technology with a thesis in viticulture and enology. I tasted wine personally and professionally Italy from north to south to mature the idea of ​​the challenge, and very addictive: “Diventare wine producer!”.

Here's my be proudly Italian, agronomo e winemaker. But as a great lover of the natural system in which I live, and I believe that agriculture is an integral part of the real road dell'esserne, I decided to go a step further my studies and become even farmer, viticulturist and winemaker. I decided to do it in the ground Catalan (Spain), I work in the vineyards and in the cellar of our properties, driven by a passion for wine, with my partner Ruth (the true Catalan), and my brother Gino.

• Where does your passion for the land and for viticulture?

I am deeply convinced that every human being has the need for contact with the earth and with nature. Do you know why a person sees when he goes to the mountains and a forest, or see a cultivated field and lush, o un bel frutteto, it feels so good that spontaneously exclaims: "How wonderful place"? For the green color that gives us this feeling. It is shown that the mere sight of green vegetation, is associated in the depths of our ancestral brain abundance: “Vegetation means water, means the presence of animals, means food”. That's why when we process from concrete and asphalt, we feel good.

“We are part of nature, but we have lost consciousness”.

With this preamble to answer because of my passion for the land: “I feel part of me!” In addition to study ecological systems, beings, plants and animals from a biological point of view and then technology and applications, grants you the luxury to better understand the natural world and the role of the human being as a part of this world. The then understand how to take advantage of the natural resources in an intelligent way to create food will reveal the intersection of the biological cycles and the essence of ecology. Also, my family origins are related to agriculture, and I think it's in my genes has awakened this desire to resume the chapters started by my grandparents.

My passion for viticulture is quickly told. The plants of the genus Vitis have a special charm, a very complex physiology that makes an ecology of plants with interesting and with enormous potential. The domestication of plants of lives over the centuries is one of the most important traditional and cultural baggage that we. The results that today we can appreciate wine tasting, derived from a long and tortuous. And of course this is also part of the wine with its practices both natural and complex, precisely because of their natural.

Vigneti Bernavi’

• There is a person who has influenced you in your choices?
  

My parents designed to work in the service sector in Milan; because I have always sacrificed and Gino early age, we could enjoy the green color, could swim in the sea or in lakes, could escape from the city, and we could keep the bond with nature. Their, and the rural origins of my grandparents, have kept alive in me the love for the land, and have certainly influenced the choice to hijack my journey on the primary sector.

My studies have now approached the viticulture and oenology, one of the branches of agribusiness more advanced level of study and knowledge acquired. Actually, browsing in the many rooms of the primary sector, a framework struck me so lightning… amore a prima vista say: “The Vineyard!"And to mark permanently the interest in deepening my knowledge about the vineyard, was a man at a conference: Attilio Scienza. His vision of local wine, and the role of agronomic management system in the wine also deriving from the principles of the great Mario Fregoni, I was immediately captured by. I recognize that are the basis for the elaboration of the "my"By wine.

• Tell me about your career in Italy?

Tortuous and will soon give. After graduation, I had the good fortune to work with the Di.Pro.Ve. of the Faculty of Agriculture of Milan. To my way of being, I think the academic career I do not particularly suited to 25 age. The desire to touch the daily life of winemaking has prompted me to look for work as an agronomist business. After some experiences in Friuli and Tuscany I landed in Le Marche, and I started working with Antonio Terni at Fattoria Le Terraces. Here I was able to collaborate in the creation of great wines, with great technical, with a great team of people, and a great Antonio. My thirst for experiences led me also in southern Italy in the Vulture area, and then return to Bergamo. But now I had to deal with my real goal, and in my thirst no longer domabile to build my personal project.

• What led you to produce wine in the land of Spain?

My relationship with Spain (better said with the Calalunya) is dated 1996, year when I met Ruth. This land has great potential in my opinion, many unexplored. For a young and restless at the beginning like me, land was a "possible" to start such an important project. L 'Italy with the development of the sector over the last twenty years land has become difficult for small developers, especially if they are young and "unknown", unless you go to areas where the establishment of a stranger is difficult for reasons more social than economic (and I talk about reality experienced and well-known because of my origins). Spain leaves some door open location in part to the economic feasibility of certain investments, and partly due to an administrative and political will to want to keep young people in rural areas (this will, dictated by need and certainly not by altruism and justice; Spain is rural, and votes in the rural area have a weight different from that of urbanized regions).

Without going into speeches by the argument that it would divert wine, I summarize my answer with a game that turns out to be romantic and philological: “In Italian we distinguish the "viticulture" (namely the cultural baggage tied to the world wine) from "viticulture" (the cultivation of the vine); Spanish and Catalan, there is only the "viticulture”. And I am an engineer who finds himself in a place without "viticulture"!

• "I live the wine." Are you like me blood and fighting. In your wine feels the character that marks you. When I drank the first time I had as a projection in my mind remembering your stories about the difficulties, the hardships and emotions to produce. Tell me about your wine?

If my motto is "in wine vivendo”, the lemma of the Cantina BERNAVÍ is "interpreting the local”. I think part you can give an explanation as to why!

“The wine is a reflection of who does it, technically, emotionally and philosophically. I try to convey to the bottle my interpretation of the potential of our vineyards, either by choosing varieties, considering that vintages“

From the moment I decided to replant the varieties I made a choice interpretative. The agronomic management you have to model every year on the progress of climate and the objectives to be achieved. And the work in the winery must comply with the answers that every year each variety gives us (for better and sometimes for worse!), own to create an original wine, which is variable as a natural product. It is precisely the naturalness of the produced wine that has prompted me to not greet me in any product specification, and that makes me line up clearly against all the noise at the European level on the rules for qualification of wines. The wine BERNAVÍ want to be honest and straightforward like me, come noi!

We are three of us in this work and for the cellar bears our name. For this reason, the names of our wines are so immediate.

A white harvested at night to take advantage of the fresh south-west wind, and the moon that shines on calcareous soils: White Night. A red, result of the work of three young souls and coupage (cutting) three varieties as different as complementary, with vinifications ad hoc for each of them: 3D3. In itinere reserves in barrels of large volume, who will talk about the concentrations of which capable exceptional terroir this…

"The cup of wine has to tell the hard work in the vineyards cold winter and torrid summer, conditions in both extreme and fascinating; must tell curved backs of the screws trying to understand the needs of each plant, from pruning to harvest…” Marco Bernava