Bread Bread, wine wine ... just to say that I have no doubt over the bread and wine that I tasted at Tenuta Quvestra. A farm of about twelve hectares located in Santa Maria della Versa, in the province of Pavia. Miriam's hand and Simone – young managers and sommeliers – in the bread preparation, and the wise guidance of the wine dear friend Mario Maffi - historical memory and wine Oltrepò Pavese - led me to think once again how nice to return to this land.

The truth is that far from the vineyards and friends can not stand ...

Yeah ... especially when it comes to re-live the quiet rolling hills covered with vineyards. Get together with friends over a glass of good wine, then, It makes these unique and special moments. È stato così anche questa volta, during a visit to this wine-growing company located in the heart of the Valle Versa, where the vine is cultivated in the surrounding environment. Six varieties: Pinot nero, Croatina, Chardonnay, Riesling Renano, Barbera and Merlot.

And as always, after walking in the vineyard, It goes to the cellar.

Yes ... because the grape is born in the vineyard and wine in the cellar. It's here, in this place rich in history and life, that is completed serious about wine knowledge. The vine, climate and land, are elements that the grower with wisdom and skill allows you to better express, especially in these years of apparent climate change. A path that once again I have lived by those who accompanied the wine produces and personalizes.

As the great Mario Soldati…

“Why, get serious knowledge of a wine does not mean, as perhaps you believe, to taste two or three sips, or even a bicchierotto. It means first of all, the precise location and delimitation where you tap the wine we want to know, get some basic geological information, geographical, historical, socio-economic. It means, then, go there, and be able to be led exactly in between those vineyards from which we get that wine. take walks, then, far and wide. And studying, in the meantime, the appearance of the landscape around, and the direction and the quality of the wind; spying on the hill time and the progress of the shadow; understand the shape of the clouds and the architecture of the farmhouses; even more, It means conversing with the person who presides over the vinification, owner, oenologist, factor… It means walking a long time even in the cellars, underground, or in sheds, between the cement tanks: scrutinize the connessure barrels, sniff the smell of wine that still ferments, detect the presence, sometimes disguised, of refrigerators or, worse, pastorizzanti. Finally tasting, in patient, Alternatively slow, or frequent intervals, compare one to the other flavors on the year.” From 'to wine Wine’

And so it taste, with poetry and respect, as usually I live wine.

After some tastings – but not too many – I stopped to argue with Mario on my misgivings concerning the evaluation of wines made by the tasters of wine guides. Let me explain ... I've always wondered how it is possible that the technical committees can enjoy tasting, and consequently evaluate, hundreds of wines – and sometimes over – without risking a sensory fatigue and a consequent addiction. Well, Mario thanks to its long experience, he could only confirm that my doubt, granting me that after tasting by about a dozen wines, It can 'only' exclude the presence of defects.

Be’, what to say ... maybe just personally I do not like to go more than a dozen tastings. For some, During this discussion, I pay special attention to a good Merlot intense bouquet and a ruby ​​red color.

Because wine (per me) it's red, and red is done right health!

By the way ... back to bread, in addition to wine, there I said that during the various tastings Simone made me taste the 'his bread’ made from Parmesan crusts. One, you got it! Crusts softened in a soaking liquid which is used for bread dough. The idea came to retrieve the large amount of residual forms of cheese which regularly, at the events, avanzavano. Really good!

Quvestra Tenuta
Wine & Hospitality – www.quvestra.it
Location New Homes, 9 – Santa Maria della Versa (Pavia)

I met Valter Calvi  thanks to the advice of,,it,you have nothing to fear ... I had to get to know them,,it,for the person who is,,it,his respect for the farmer ... It is defined by many,,it,It is run by David and his father Valter,,it,For eleven generations,,it,so as to avoid the erosion of hilly terrain and at the same time creating an ideal microhabitat for herbaceous essences and useful insects,,it,you want to tell me what you mean by "respect for the farmer",,it,It is part of the Primus Group Colle,,it,and new experiences that we can do and then tramanderemo,,it,In a historic moment facing only forward,,it,Through the publication calls the "Papers Primus Collis" and to walk ancient paths,,it,we seek to promote our small but no less important story,,it Mario Maffi. When Mario told me about the passion and respect for the farmer and his son Walter David put in the conduct of their business, I decided to go with them for a visit ...

Valter and Davide Calvi from "The circle of the earth" by Laura Ferrari, Photos of Alexander Branch

I went for the first time one evening a few months ago, after I lost, as usual, wandering up and down Castana, a Pavia. When I finally managed to get seated at the table in front of a glass of wine, chatted with Valter long… I sensed her curiosity, or better, his desire to understand and know. Initially interpreted as mistrust, feeling that I was not afraid, because, when you have nothing to hide, non si ha nulla da temere… Ero li per conoscerlo, and to invite him to participate in an evening of wine tasting dell'Oltrepò. And so it was ...

A few days ago I wanted to go find,  per la persona che è, for the man whom I respect, for his belief of the Earth, per il suo rispetto del contadino… Viene definito da molti a maverick, a free man and maverick, a man who does not follow the crowd…

I understand well because they are very similar, said a rebel…  I say that we are people who consistently follow its own nature, who do not want to comply just because the weather requires it. Sometimes you may be alone, but if it succumbs, it is, however, only in a crowd…

L 'Winery Calvi è condotta da Davide e dal padre Valter. Da undici generazioni, since the end of 1600, continues the tradition of grape growing on the hills of Brown. Nine hectares of vineyards divided into ten vines: Montarzolo, Cane, Custieu, Dove, Pragazzolo, Monteguzzo, Bugena, Frach, Falerna, San Bacchino. Their viticulture is based on respect for the environment and the well-being of the plant, without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides limiting. Take over twenty-five years, the technique of the rows dell'inerbimento, così da evitare l’erosione dei terreni collinari e nel contempo creando un microhabitat ideale per essenze erbacee ed insetti utili.

But now the word Valter Calvi ...

• Valter, vuoi raccontarmi che cosa intendi per “rispetto del contadino”?

And 'respect for "Mother Nature" that the true farmer has innate. Considering that we are an integral part of the system: land, water and sky, we can not relate with these elements and with all living beings except with respect.

• Are you a history buff like me.  Fai parte del gruppo Primus Colle, tell me who you are and what you aim?

The comparison above is inextricably linked to the knowledge that our ancestors have left us, e alle nuove esperienze che noi possiamo fare e che poi tramanderemo. In un momento storico rivolto solo in avanti, together with other fans, we wanted to create an association that seeks the history of this area of ​​our First Hill, and before it could spread to keep always. Attraverso delle pubblicazioni chiamate i “Quaderni di Primis Collis” e a camminate per antichi sentieri,  cerchiamo di divulgare la nostra piccola ma non meno importante storia.

• Are you a member of the Club del Buttafuoco historical as both a producer and a passionate. Carlo Porta, poeta dialettale milanese, attributed to this wine's name Buttafuoco for his body and character. Tell me about your adventure started this?

Anche qui il “rispetto” ha avuto parte preponderante. Ho sempre pensato che le fatiche, sweat, e le immense conoscenze dei vecchi vignaioli non potessero perdersi per inconsistenti esigenze commerciali. The idea of ​​the Club Buttafuoco Storico was born in 1989 con l’impianto di una vigna. Ho poi cercato di coinvolgere altri produttori spiegando che al di la dell’interesse per raggiungere quella “nobiltà” che il vignaiolo deve avere, needed to produce a wine with strong ties to the land and the ancient knowledge.  Quasi per gioco abbiamo cominciato a produrre Buttafuoco secondo le esperienze dei nostri avi, and in those vineyards handed down as highly suited. The 7 February 1996 è nato il “Club del Buttafuoco Storico”

• Are you a researcher. You told me of your experimentation with a variety called Vespolina the Ughetta…

Cynthia, researcher is a big word ... always by winemaker I made new tests. If it were not so we would not have come to this wealth of diversity in the wine world ...

L’Ughetta di Canneto (Vespolina is a name given to back that I do not like) e the Moradella, were among the most cultivated grapes before the advent of phylloxera in these my lands. Now that we were able to retrieve it is normal curiosity to see their character in purity.

• In my discussions “vinose” I defend to the hilt small producers for the traditions and the typical who bravely carry on since the difficult period. I frequently say that I preach poetry,  ma non qualità. This statement is motivated by the difficulty to sustain the technology in the basement due to the small size of these realities. Valter, turn the question to you ...

The peasant family business is a priceless heritage that Italy is still rich and that the whole world envies us. It can produce the products by the inimitable, can maintain traditional production techniques and truly "natural", but it is especially crucial for the protection of the territory, whether the material or the immaterial.

In the context of the world market a wealth of this kind can be strategic to convey the image of our products. Therefore also useful to the food industry, which of course also has its own identity.

The respect of the farmer means that he enters on tiptoe in nature,

con umiltà, and devotion ...

Valter Calvi

I met Mario Maffi – Winemaker and Technical Director of the Agricultural Montelio – thanks to his invitation for a visit to the cellar. I listened and listened to me for hours. A simple man like few – gaze frank and sincere – linked to the territory, its history and its traditions. A real Italian.

The Farm Montelio, whose name derives from the greek Helios Upstream of the sun, It is located in Codevilla, in the province of Pavia. Fu l’Ing. Angelo Domenico Mazza, big fan of viticulture, to start business with the acquired land in the first 1848. From 1982, The Technical Director is the winemaker Mario Maffi. Then a Varzi, He is a great expert and connoisseur of Oltrepò Pavese.

A few weeks ago I went back to find it. A person who I respect very much, one of the best men I've known in recent years.

• Our origins ... it all starts with them. How did your adventure in the world of wine?

I was born in the vineyards because my father was a winegrower. But the my favorite hobby was to design homes. When I went to sign up for Tortona Surveyor, fate has it that I forgot a document at home. Along the way I met my Italian teacher of Retorbido, that, felt my choice, I strongly advised against. Urged me instead to enroll at the Institute agrarian despite my best grades were in construction and topography. After school Eng. Shoulder offered me a partnership in his studio. Literally burst into tears when I had to give up ... I had just received a call; I had to leave for the military. It was not his destiny, and I surrendered to fate. Once back I specialized in Oenology.

• I often ask this question and I would also like your opinion. In Italy there are many small producers. I often hear industry experts argue that these small businesses, failing mostly to pay the expenses for new technologies, can not make quality wines. What do you think?

This speech may make sense only with white wines. For red wines, no. The red wine is born in the vineyard. I have a dear friend who is going through a difficult time due to health problems, a music teacher involved in social. It, Giuseppe Colombo, along with three friends decided to produce wine good, and he turned to me. A day in the context of the important ones Piedmont,  in a tasting of eleven wines tasted blindfold, It was very successful despite the small dimension of reality. Red wine, starting from a good grape, can be produced safely with excellent results.

• What do you think will make the institution immediately to help manufacturers in a concrete way?

Need less bureaucracy, need a strong investment in young people, focused and not scattered, to create entrepreneurship.

After the war the Friuli Venezia Giulia gave money to the peasant families. But they had to invest a minimum of eight acres, and thirty-year mortgages with subsidized. If you decided to quit before the company, had to return the money ...

• And 'now widespread tendency to classify wines in biological, biodynamics, organic ... Do not you think that we can further confuse the consumer?

To say organic is almost a fashion seen that the average Italian is not polite to an end. As long as I shall see an organic vineyard sign near highly polluted areas, I can not believe in biological. The biological might have a logic if there was a strict regulation that would ensure its implementation.

Should be done with a mapping of land free from major sources of pollution, and a little rainy mapping of areas. They can not tell me you in the valley of the Adige with 1300 mm of rain per year can do with the biological parameters of Brussels.

Our Wine Company Montelio,  falls into a category I call "towards the environment”. We try to make integrated agriculture. We left the woods around the vineyards, and we have allowed a group of natural building, next to the plants, artificial nests to facilitate the return of great tits and redstarts.

Recreate a natural environment, This is what's really important…

 I Doria di Montalto… non so, ma detto così mi sembra quasi di raccontare la storia di una famiglia medioevale… di castelli, di sfide e di duelli!

E qui scatta la molla… Si, perché dovete sapere che amo molto la storia, and in particular I love everything that has a lived experience to tell. When I see antiques in my wanderings it is as if I were magnetized, and if anyone is with me hear me say: "Wait a minute I have to look ..." Not for nothing at home I surround myself with old books, candelabra, I read, spade, sabers and knives. Then when I enter the historic houses the matter gets really serious. It is as if you were experiencing a dejà vu , as if I were going home ... I only know that one day when you come in, come on Doria Montalto that atmosphere enveloped me ...

You should know that the Doria winery started its business in 1800. Pietro Doria, telegraph operator during the Second World War and survived the extermination of the Acqui Division in Kefalonia, once he returned from captivity he gave new impetus to the business. They followed him until 1996, the sons Bruno and Adriano. After that the reins passed into the hands of Andrew and David,  led by their mother Giuseppina Sassella Doria.

I decided to arrange a meeting for a visit. I was late as usual ... Despite my best efforts I can never be on time! Along the way, the landscapes caught my attention in particular, enough to stop and get out of the car to fully enjoy the beauty.

As Luigi Veronelli said in an article in the Corriere del 2003: “It is a territory which must be discovered slowly, and not only for the wine vocation ... "

At the entrance, dear Daniele Manini met me, agronomist of the company, with whom I spent an entire afternoon talking. The thought still amuses me, because Mario Maffi well known winemaker in Oltrepò Pavese, he had announced that it would be a good fight between the two of us ... Yes, fight who talked the most! Well I called him at the end of the evening, I had won!

You must know that Daniele had started his career as a pilot in aeronautics. It was a vision problem that stopped him, and that forced him to question his life. It was then that he turned to the Faculty of Agriculture of Viterbo, which soon led him to start his happy collaboration with the Doria family. He is a great supporter of the recovery of historical vines and cellar techniques to be sought in the history and traditions of the territory. It is also defined as the following figure, to quote his own words,  "The branch cattle-uva-come",  the Cellar Master. And it is precisely this thought of his that led him to give continuity to the tradition of the Cantina Doria. With him the “historical” Barbera raised in Italian chestnut barrels was made.  And this experimentation of his has led a famous “French tonnellerie” to take an interest, enough to entrust to some teachers the evaluation of the results that will obtain.

I look at my hills and often sip their wine so as not to doubt my teachers ... I look at the Pavia hills each time, moved, that are my sweet horizon of vine leaves. The Po land undulates like an immense sea fringed in profiles familiar to me from childhood. The waves are intense green, and gradually they become light blue violets until they become confused, with the sky ...

Giovanni Luigi Brera, the Gioânn, born on 8 September 1919 and San Zenone Po (Pv)