Maximum Dellavedova, a friend, a cook, but also a simple and sincere person. One of the last romantics, come me: one chef in love. Last April, with my happiness, finally he realized his dream: Cascina Malingamba. A historic landmark originally born as posteria to meet the stops of the wayfarers, then, in 1960, It has become a real eating place. A Lombard farmhouse called Malingamba for 'lame step' of his first owner. Curious its location: è situata per metà nel comune di Lainate in provincia di Milano, e per la restante parte nel comune di Origgio, in the province of Varese.

A few days ago, on a cold autumn evening, I went to see him for a chat between friends. serious and less serious conversations that warm the heart, between stories, confidences and advice. Listening to the account of his many work commitments, from time to time I advised him to breathe, ben consapevole del ritmo che i cuochi oggigiorno devono sostenere per stare al passo con i tempi. The classic response to my concerns: “Girl, Quiet, everything is under control”. Massimo is like that, a cook in the running, but always sweet and with a smile: one chef smile.

In addition to the mutual exchange of experience, He talked about projects and the type of restaurant that has intention to propose in Cascina Malingamba. Nell’ascoltarlo, mi hanno particolarmente interessato alcune sue affermazioni che condivido, e che qui di seguito ho riportato per approfondimenti e riflessioni.

• I think in the dining today is right that the technique go ahead. Unlike, ideology, you have to make long steps back, until you get to the restaurant thirty years ago. It 'important to rediscover the old ways and processes of raw materials, adding the techniques of modern kitchen to preserve flavor and quality.

• Unfortunately in the dining today lacks professionalism in the room brigade, intensa come gruppo di figure professionali per l’accoglienza. Under the guise of the Italian service, it was thought that all are capable of doing the waiters and the chef de rang. “Tanto devono portare solo i piatti”, non corrisponde al vero. It has lost the elegance and the capacity of the room service. Among the younger generation of waiters, pochi sanno sporzionare davanti a un cliente.

• I think there are too many cooks programs. A format on a floor manager, subjected to daily customer moods, It could be useful to understand some of the same real needs. I can not be who agree with him. Proprio per questo motivo, circa un anno fa, I tried to point out the same thing doing an interview with Lukasz Komperda, un giovane e brillante cameriere.

• Today's dishes are related to aesthetics too and less to the proportions. Sometimes they are even comparable to degustativi menu. La proporzionalità del piatto, in generale, deve essere adeguata alle basi insegnate nelle scuole secondo le tabelle ufficiali.
  

• When I say that in catering must turn back the years, I am also referring to servizio al pedestal. For the uninitiated means Serve at room directly by the waiter, come si usava fare un tempo. The scenic effect is always very welcome.

I take the floor to an appreciation, stating that, as Massimo knows, I have no hesitation in also make constructive criticism to my dearest friends restaurateurs. Having said, ho molto gradito che, oltre alla carta dell’acqua, Beer and Wine, Cascina Malingamba you can choose, and also wanting to buy, what you want to drink directly into the restaurant's cellar. A 'visual card' that makes your eyes sparkle to people like me, He likes to observe and read the wine labels.

At the end of the evening, Maximum, salutandomi, It told me a dream that before long realized: a'Cooking Academy. A study and practice with board and lodging. A practical study for students of hotel school. Ne vedremo delle belle, rather, We will taste good!

Cascina Malingamba www.cascinamalingamba.com

Via per Lainate, 33 Origgio (VA) Such. 02 94383789

Well you! I have learned from my grandfather Joseph, a Mantua Doc!

Di lui, as well as the mythical playing cards that I got as a child, I have left some of the teachings, as the habit of using the spoon to roll the noodles, or to put a pinch of salt on the melon to make it sweeter, o infine, to put a little 'wine broth.

I remember many years ago, when, one morning getting up for breakfast, I saw it for the first time to drink the broth in which he had put a drop of wine. Imagine my face…: “Grandfather, but you do?! Put the wine in the broth, and, moreover, drink it at breakfast?!

Many will know that this custom is practiced in some provinces of Lombardy, Emilia and Piedmont. Add the wine to the broth, I mean what good, that certainly did not die with the, for Mantua and not only is it a real tradition! 😉

That said, the assumption that the stock should be good, I would say that we follow the recipe recommends a dear friend, Chef Massimo Dellavedova.

The Meat broth Massimo Dellavedova

Ingredients:

• 1 kg of cow adultery (real, brisket, pulp shoulder, scamone)
• 500 Article. cappone (it's good chicken)
• 1 large onion
• 2 gambi in Sedano
• 1 carota average
• 2 cloves
• 3 bay leaves
• 4 black peppercorns
• A little salt
• 4,5 the. of water

Preparation:

• Peel vegetables and capon (chicken)
• Picketing the onion with the cloves
• Put everything in a large pot
• Simmer for at least 3 hours skimming with a slotted spoon each time froth. I would recommend not boil.
• When cooking over, filtrarlo, fix it with salt and cool. Once cold degrease. This is simply because the fat has solidified on the surface.

In this way you will obtain three liters of broth.

In love ... but you say "in love" of those who? But to me obvious! Quiet Maximum I can already see that Gin eyes or noo ...?! Friends, Seriously I want to present Massimo Dellavedova, my dear friend and chef ... I love that man!

I met him now time back by Antonella Varese, other chef protagonist of my story. He tells me often that Antonella is its female version, while I was there I can only say, I have the pride to count them both among my circle of friends. It certainly does not refer us the art of cooking ... I can see your face "alienated" by my son Andrew, that tells me that friends often noticing my interest in this world think about how lucky he is and tell him: “Who knows what dishes you eat at your house! E lui: "Ehh ...!"I must confess that I love good food, but how to cook it is better to pass over. E… va bè! Mica can be good at everything!

Ooops ... I am lost ... What I said?! Ah sì, I love Max, and as I could not. Sensitive and passionate man, but a bit 'crazy like me. With him my ironic emerges to the fullest and when you are, I enjoy it too much to take it a bit 'around, Time passes and the sound of laughter. When he tells me about some anecdotes, "Its a kind host who asked him the fish, but he did not know too much about fish ... "I say that we just have to laugh! Maximus in a gastronomic event has had the audacity to create finger in plastic balls that came from a vending. For non-expert like me, finger food is food eaten with the hands. Think that funny and original use as if by pulling balls like when the children estraevamo eager to discover the surprise! Well Max is so, loves to play on the imagination of the people ... Not for nothing is one "chef smile!”

Ma always eats physician, I point on the simplicity ... and in fact a day, while listening to the speeches of haute cuisine between him and another of his great colleague starry, I could not help myself. Do you think that debating the use of leaves from taste of oyster, the Oyster leaf Leaves also known as vegetarian oyster. Well 'I intervened so: "But I said sorry, but directly use the oyster noo ...?!” They looked at me almost resentful of my lack of appreciation for their research, I would call sometimes morbid! Now you see such elaborate dishes that often the authentic home cooking is an object of desire! Recently I happened to find myself in front of almost manic presentations. Beautiful certain, but sometimes more suitable for photo shoots for cookbooks! It 'true that creativity is part of their profession ... And then I say that perhaps revisit the classic dishes of our tradition, is what you expect people like me, who like to approach to a simple kitchen and quality.

I once asked Massimo: "What do you prepare yourself to me if I asked you a fresh appetizer for the summer?"He accepted the challenge and asked me: “Breadsticks amaretto wrapped in prosciutto di San Daniele with low salinity with bicolored storm melon mint, accompanied by finger food drawstring cantaloupe melon, and yellow melon with ham dehydrated. All accompanied by a woman and a Fugata Torbato”. Wow dissi!
He is not considered a great wine connoisseur ... When once asked him what he said predilection : "You know there are different, depends on the place and my mood ... the choice of wine for me to follow the mood ". Have you ever thought about it? It, an incurable romantic sweet and passionate as me. His dream is to create the space in which to invest his projects, his experience and his great creativity. And as I say, must always leave the doors open to the hopes, because people full of resources should be supported and encouraged ... are the future and the driving force of our beautiful country!

As one of my colleagues: "The earth is not ready for the extra terrestrial" and I add ... "as women for romantics". Maximum Dellavedova