The last stop on my recent excursion to Cupramontana was at the Ca'Liptra farm. Just thinking about it still makes me shiver! There fraintendetemi, I was referring to the cold gusts of wind that still carried me away a little that day! Jokes aside, returning serious, I reflected on the important influence that this climatic condition has on viticulture.

in fact, this mass of air in motion, acting on the microclimate, it helps to reduce humidity and consequently prevents the formation of fungal diseases. Also, limits the development of phytophagous insects harmful to crops and infectious virus vectors for plants, limiting the use of phytosanitary treatments. I'm talking about the wind, this atmospheric phenomenon allied to the biodiversity of agroecosystems, and in this case, of the vine. One of the essential elements of the climate, that, together with the vine, to the territory and to the skill of those who make the wine, express the typicality of a product.

That day, arrived at its destination, I found myself immersed in a real natural amphitheater. A dire la verità appurare l’esattezza del luogo non fu davvero facile. in fact, la sede della società agricola è poco segnalata. Anyway, dopo qualche telefonata chiarificatrice, riuscii finalmente ad iniziare la mia visita a Ca’Liptra. La scelta del nome prende spunto dall’apparato del fiore della vite, una sorta di cappuccio protettivo dell’infiorescenza, che si stacca all’avvenuta fioritura.

Una piccola realtà agricola a conduzione biologica nata nel 2012 dall’unione di tre soci, that, conclusi gli studi di enologia, dopo il tirocinio a Cupramontana – capitale storica del Verdicchio – si sono innamorati a tal punto della zona da trasferire qui le loro vite. "Making wine together", questo è il progetto. Uno di loro, Roberto Alfieri – mia gentile guida – è giunto qui da Monza, sua terra di origine: “Il Verdicchio l’ho conosciuto e apprezzato durante il mio praticantato a Cupramontana. È molto interessante la sua evoluzione, soprattutto se invecchiato almeno cinque anni.”

Partiti con due ettari di vigneti, parzialmente recuperati, oggi ne allevano nove. Sette nella Contrada di San Michele, zona storica esposta a sud – la zona più calda di Cupramontana – con terreni molto scoscesi e vigne con una pendenza media del 40 %, e due in Contrada San Marco. Vigneti inerbiti trattati solo con rame e zolfo. In una modesta struttura, ancora in via di sistemazione, from 2012 vinificano in una piccola cantina affinando in acciaio e vasche di cemento, for a total of about 20.000 bottiglie annue.

Sapidità, acidità e mineralità, il denominatore comune dei loro vini:

KYPRA : Verdicchio in purezza, lieviti indigeni. Espressione del territorio di Cupramontana, unione di parcelle diverse. Fermenta e affina sulle fecce fini, in vasche di cemento, per almeno 8 mesi.

S.MICHELE 21 : Verdicchio in purezza. Vino di vigna. 0,55 ha, 350 m s.l.m. con filari esposti a sud-est. Fermentazione spontanea senza controllo di temperatura in barriques di più passaggi. Affinamento per 12 mesi sulle fecce di fine fermentazione e 6 mesi in bottiglia.

LE LUTE : Verdicchio in purezza, metodo classico. Uva raccolta da un singolo appezzamento a 380 m s.l.m. con filari esposti a sud. Prodotto solo in annate particolarmente favorevoli. Affina in bottiglia per oltre 36 mesi.

CALIPTRA : Trebbiano in purezza, lieviti indigeni. Vengono effettuate due diverse raccolte: la prima, anticipata, per mantenere l’acidità e la seconda a maturazione, con breve macerazione sulle bucce. Le due masse, tenute separate fino a fine fermentazione, vengono poi unite per l’affinamento, che si svolge in vasche di acciaio per sei mesi sulle fecce fini.

ARANCIO : Trebbiano in purezza, lieviti indigeni. Proveniente da una singola vigna a 220 m s.l.m. esposta a est. Una lunga macerazione sulle bucce lo sfuma d’arancio. Affinamento di otto mesi in acciaio sulle fecce fini.

AMISTA’ : Montepulciano in purezza. Proveniente da una piccola vigna di 0,27 ettari a 200 m s.l.m. esposta ad ovest. Equipped with freshness and drinkability, since it carries out a short maceration of 2-3 days. The fermentation ends in exhausted barriques and steel tanks, refining on the lees for 9 mesi.

            Ca'Liptra Agricultural Company – Via San Michele, 21 Cupramontana (AN) www.caliptra.it

The market, so beautiful so much still little known. I am referring above all to the hinterland, and, for fans like me, to its ancient wine routes. Paths dotted with hills and historic villages that make the eyes sparkle with the beauty of the landscapes. Among the many, on my last excursion, I wanted to choose one that has always been linked to the cultivation of the vine. Un comune parzialmente montano il cui nome fa riferimento al culto della dea Cupra, an Italic divinity protector of the fertility of the earth. I refer to Cupramontana, historic village located in 505 metri s.l.m. in the heart of the Marche, che dal 1939 it has earned the title of capital of Verdicchio, for the enhancement it has been able to give to this vine.

I remember years ago, to one of my introductory wine courses, trovai singolare la somiglianza genetica che lega il Verdicchio ad un vitigno veneto. I refer to Trebbiano di Soave, grown in the province of Verona and Vicenza, but not only. Among the most accredited hypotheses it seems that this ancient 'kinship' is due to a migration of Veronese farmers that in the fifteenth century, to escape the plague, they moved to Ancona. A forced and documented exodus, which induced the Venetian population to bring with them the rooted cuttings of their vines. Obviously, over the centuries this vine has been able to adapt well to the microclimatic conditions and the geomorphological characteristics of the soil., expressing themselves at their best and assuming a real organoleptic identity, thanks to which it can be considered a native vine. Il Verdicchio – il cui nome ha origine dalle persistenti sfumature verdi dell’acino – is a versatile grape that, if left to age, surprising for its complexity and elegance. Two denominations: Verdicchio of the Castles of Jesi, of character and structure with important alcoholic traits, and Verdicchio di Matelica, more delicate and with a modest alcohol content.

Mario Soldati in the autumn of 1970, during his second journey to discover real wines, raccontò in “Vino al Vino” il suo incontro con il Verdicchio, or better, with Verdicchio from the Castellucci di Montecarotto winery. An experience full of intense aromas, fresh, pungent. Greenish straw yellow colors. Flavors first sweetened, then sour, con un’aromaticità che a Soldati riportò alla mente alcuni Riesling, Chablis, Gewürztraminer and Pinot grigi: “The class is the same, but the composition of the aromas is different, particular to verdicchio, or at least this Verdicchio, and, in short, unique."  Asides aside, the territory of Cupramontana is inextricably linked to viticulture and the production of Verdicchio. Walking through the old town, with a typical medieval aspect, I found the shops specializing in the sale of material for oenology very interesting. The sight of their shop windows speaks volumes about the interests of the people of these lands.    

Continuing with my walk all of a sudden my gaze turned to an imposing structure. An architectural gem dating back to the early 1700s that I had every intention of visiting. Too bad it was closed! Despite this, as often happens in small towns, if you kindly ask… you get! So it was again this time thanks to the councilor for culture of the municipality of Cupramontana, the kind Maddalena Mennechella, who happened to be on the spot to do some chores. His kind and friendly hospitality allowed me to visit the ME – Cave museum, a museum itinerary located in the magnificent caves of Convent of Santa Caterina. A labyrinth of tunnels dug into the sandstone protected by the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities, in which the symbolic product of this land is told through display panels and educational materials: the Verdicchio. Inside there is also the Museum of the label, in which numerous labels selected by the 'golden label' award are exhibited.

The last stop on my excursion to Cupramontana was at the farm Ca’Liptra. But I will tell you more about this visit in my next paper. One, perché quel giorno le forti folate di vento mi hanno fatto pensare alla sua importante influenza in viticoltura. Prima di scriverne però voglio documentarmi meglio. 😉

MIG Musei in Grotta Cupramontana (AN) – www.museiingrotta.it

Photo credit Verdicchio: Turismo Cupramontana www.turismo-cupramontana.com

I present to you “lu vi cottu"In the local dialect means Marche “mulled wine”, a dessert wine.

We are Loro Piceno, in Macerata, common to the excellence of this ancient drink of the Marche. Mario Soldati work Vino al Vino of 1971, describing the sensations experienced when tasting a must cotto aged sixty years' writing:

“I find it a dessert wine, excellent. A nice brick red color to dark gold reflections, the strange taste, smoked and rough, corrects and prevents the viscous and sometimes cloying sweetness of many raisin and marsalati. There is something fascinating, deep and rustic mountain, in vino cotto ...”

It let me know dear Emanuela Tiberi dell’The. Agricola David Tiberi of Loro Piceno (MC).

Insieme a lei, but not only, I spent a pleasant evening of food and wine circle "For All Tastes"Dedicated to the region Marche. Coordinator of this tour, Charles Vischi, the setting of the “The Cannetto“, restaurant at the Sheraton Malpensa.

During dinner with Emanuela has spoken at length about this production typically Marche ancient history. Given my interest in the traditions has seen fit to send me a publication produced by the Chamber of Commerce of Macerata, I received a few days ago, and on which I quote:

"Tradition has it that, stored in oak barrels, it constituted an act to preserve the principle medicinal luster to the skin, treat rashes of children, restore the scent of breaths and, mainly, lift the human spirit from the monotony of every day. There was no farmer or sharecropper that once he had his own barrel of wine cooked. "

The mulled wine obtained by boiling the wort from the vines of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese, resting long aging in oak barrels. In addition to being used in desserts and to flavor meat, is an excellent remedy for treating coughs and colds.

That being said I will say: “But ... the boars are escaped?” Magari you rispondo!

Unfortunately they cause serious and continuing devastation of crops. For years, entire herds damage the crops of these lands, creating serious obstacles to local agriculture. Even the hunting has been able to reduce the presence of these wild animals. An analysis of Coldiretti has estimated the damage caused by the attacks to an amount of more than four million euro.

I reproduce below the outburst that just a few days ago Emanuela made me write me an e-mail:

“Cinzia, Today I went to prune my vineyard; I found out several screws huge hole that they dug for wild boars find the roots. The risk is the consequent death of plants. A real problem is that we live for years farmers in Macerata. Who takes care of duty, but the results are still very visible.”

It seems almost impossible that we can not resolve this situation. From curious what are researching on the web, I found an article in the 2010 of the Province of Sondrio that shows the strategy adopted by local farmers “sull’uso dell’smell the bear” to ward off the wild boars. Strategy to significantly deepen…