A few weeks ago visiting The Tzaven, agrimercato of the Campagna Amica Aosta tended to favor the short chain to the consumer closer to the producer direct, Yves incontrato ho Perraillon, craftsman Fontina. A chat and ... in less than no time I was in a Pasture 2200 meters! You will say: "Ma che far?"A Mangia Pane, burro e… Fontina!
And now I ask you: "Hands up who knows what is" behind "a form of Fontina?” Okay I see that there, but ... do not you mess with us! Therefore, I am saying that giving birth before my guided tour I had not given due consideration to this typical Valle d'Aosta. Do you think it will take much 100 liters of milk to make a form of fontina!
(PDO: Protected Designation of Origin, which is attributed to foods whose characteristics depend on the region from which. Is ensured by a disciplinary.)
I recommend everyone to visit, because, as well as to spend a day in contact with nature, you will appreciate the uniqueness of a product obtained with great Italian job, commitment and passion! I could appreciate the work that led by Yves and his wife, I have conducted in phases and in places of work. Guardando Yves in un momento di vita, in the ritual gestures repeated over the years, I asked him admired: “How many times have you done these operations…?“
The visit to the pasture was the most exciting part of my career. Nature, silences, contact with a calf born only a day… Then, watch the production of butter as his time as a child… I remember that in the country in Treviso watched my grandmother Jija in the fulfillment of the same operation, almost in contemplation, admired by the transformation of that cream into butter and then spread on bread gustavo, exactly as I did in pasture by Yves…
In these valleys at an altitude of 2000 meters animals are fed in pastures rich in a particular vegetation that gives the milk characteristics far more peculiar farming in the valley. Despite this, you can not distinguish between a label and a fontina Alpine valley floor, seen that the marking is the same, and is not allowed by the specification to add anything beyond the specification for the PDO. Only the aromas and flavors tasted allow us to differentiate. It is good? And for mio parere! The work involved in the breeding pasture is awarded to a product with specific characteristics, and why the consumer should not have the possibility of being able to read the label! Mah!
But who can tell you better than Yves ...
- Yves Perrailon, producer of Fontina Alpine. How did your passion?
Born from a passion passed down from generation to generation family. I have always been passionate about everything that is related to agriculture from the animals ..., from haymaking, cheese from milk…
- What is your typical day?
Well depends on the season ... In the winter you go to the bottom of the valley:
– Wake up at 5, milking, animal feeding, contribution of milk and dairy 16 second milking.
In period estivo you go to pasture:
– Wake up at 3 morning, milking, processing of milk for the production of Fontina. Following cleaning of the stable, salting and turning the fontina cheeses produced in the days before. Then you go to the pasture to the 12 with the return of the animals. We have lunch at 15, and after the second milking proceed with the processing of the fontina and the pasture until at 22.
- The DOP is certified as a guarantee of the product according to a product specification for the PDO "FONTINA". What are the requirements for certification?
There are many to the area of production, seasoning, portioning of melted cheese, feed the cows consists of grass and hay produced exclusively in Aosta Valley and more… The specification is available on the website of the Ministry of Agricultural Food and Forestry Policies. It is recognized by the "Consorzio Tutela Fontina" (CTF).
- In my visit to your company, I noticed that your employees are mostly foreigners. How is the working approach of the Italian dairy sector?
No staff is Italian, alas. Assume that we train foreign personnel on the job, I have to say with great results.
The cheese… the stroke of the milk to immortality.
Clifton Fadiman
Comments to the publication reported on Facebook
Claudia Crolla:
I have a friend in Alagna doing the same things….and it is a very tiring job anyway!!!!
Cynthia Tosini:
Claudia, true. I found myself how much work is behind. Ma, I am convinced that we can tire out even more when doing less work hours, there are emotions, and you do not feel satisfaction…
Cheese Gigi:
The fontina cheese is a show, without taking anything away from that produced in dairies plain… a large cheese with a capital.
Cynthia Tosini:
Gigi truth… ma quella alpeggio of a “note flavors” in più! Indeed more than one note!
Cheese Gigi:
Si… sicurmente cows on pasture produce milk much more fragrant and flavorful due to grass mountain,in my area we call the “pasture Mut”… as the formai de mut dairy and Alpine, 2 cheese completely different even stamping ,the first red and blue in the second… I'm getting hungry ha ha
Richard Pilesi:
….first: publish more and more interesting things you do every day good….and I'll explain also why… I never considered a great fontina cheese….ignorant… but your description of the process and passion, as well as the enormous effort that is made to produce this and other cheeses… put me on a strong desire to try this cheese, and above all see the difference between the one produced in the valley and the mountain pasture….thanks for making us discover new things every day of our wonderful (for this side, that is, those who work and those who do not steal) country… 🙂
Cynthia Tosini:
Riccardo… but thanks! You know the same was true for me, Now when will buy Fontina, to observe it with different eyes. Live “field” with producers for a visit is priceless experience. We need to understand more about the product, is also used to understand the work that goes into. When it tastes then the mind goes… and another thing, another pleasure. This is the conscious consumption! 🙂